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The switch for the ice and water dispenser broke.
First I shut off the water supply and disconnected the power to the refrigerator. Remove the two finger tabs that are used to for the light swirch and ice/water by pulling straight down. Remove the cover to the dispenser assembly by pulling it out by hand. I removed the four small phillips head screw in each corner of the assembly. Pull the assembly out just enough to expose the circuit board connectors. Note the color of the wires and their position and location. The connectors are different sizes and should not be confused. Remove the two connector by pull them out straight. You can remove the entie assembly , but pay attention to the the water actuator when the assembly is removed entirely to prevent damage. Place the the dispenser assemby on a solid surface and remove the two screws holding the circuit board in place. Pay attention to the position of the black circuit board retainer be fore removing it. The circuitboard should be removed by pryiing gently on each side until it is released. Reverse the procedure for installation of the circuit board..
Water / ice cheap plastic selector knob broke off.
First I shut off the water to the refrigerator and unpluged the electrical cord. Then I unsnapped the cover to the control board assembly located above the ice/water selector knob. Then removed four screws holding the control board assembly. Then I tilted the assembly out far enough to unplug the two sets of wires connected to the control board. Then I removed the two screws holding the control board to the plastic assembly. You are then able to lift the control board out of the assembly. Be careful tilting out the assembly. I pulled too hard and removed the whole thing from the refrigerator which disconnected the ice/water actuator lever and I had some problems getting it re-installed correctly. Installation is basically the reverse of removal. I suggest testing it before snapping back on the final cover plate. I wouldn't recommend trying this repair unless you've done some kind of basic automotive or appliance repair... you can always try it and call a repairman if you get stuck. Good luck!
The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.
The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.
Removed goods in fridge, removed shelf, unscrewed 2 screws, installed new drawer slide with 2 screws, replaced shelf, inserted drawer. Most of the time was moving the stuff in the refregerator. If the fridge was empty it would have taken me 2 minutes.
UNPLUGGED REFRIGERATOR.. removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..
First I remove the 4 screw that connect the control board to the icemaker and then removed two more screws hold the control board in place and unpluged the control board and put the new one in and plugged it back up and put all the screws back and it was done I had no more problems
you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.
My ice breaker started leaking and making noise anf the stripper broke.
I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.
The problem is the common issue that the proximity of the plastic water lines that leave the electrically controlled valve near the compressor in the bottom back corner of the fridge, means they become brittle and crack/break. Both the line leaving to the ice-maker that runs diagonally across the outside back of the fridge, and the line that runs under the fridge to feed the water dispenser failed at the valve, breaking off just where they start at the valve.
The result was I noticed a big puddle coming out from under the fridge (too late for the poor wood floor).
The solution, replace the parts. For the ice maker line, it is one thin line - its easy to replace other than taking care to uncrimp and recrimp the connection up at the entry to the freezer.
For the thicker tube, the one that goes to the water dispenser, you replace the reservoir tank that sits inside the fridge. It has the two lines leaving it permanently attached to the tank, hence you replace the whole thing. There are separate lines and a splice/union that can be used to replace just the last 6 inches near the compressor, but I chose to replace the whole unit. This describes replacing that water chill tank unit.
The tank sits behind the bottom 2 drawers in the fridge.. you see it when you pull out the drawers. It has two lines permanently attached, one runs out of one hole in the bottom of the fridge and to the back of the fridge where it attaches to the exit on the electrical valve. The other runs out of the other hole in the bottom of the fridge and runs along the side, then along the front from the fridge to the freezer side. There is a union that connects that line to another line that then runs up the freezer door. Remove the front cover under the fridge to see this line and the union.
To replace the tank, you have to disconnect it from both ends, where its held in by plastic nuts/unions. Water remaining in the lines will drain out when you disconnect them. I unscrewed the valve assembly from the fridge body and then unplugged the plugs to the valves to do the work (but left the fridge plugged in).
To do this work, I needed to raise the fridge side edge of the appliance, since the hoses route along the underside of the fridge. After you disconnect the two ends (at the union on the freezer side bottom front egdge, and back side at the valve) you can pull the hoses up into the fridge. Routing the new hoses will require you have at least that one side off the floor to get your hands under it. I got two 6" tall 4x4 wood blocks and tipped the fridge slightly, raising the right (fridge) side off the ground and slid the blocks under the fridge rollers.
To remove the tank, before you raise the edge of the fridge, there are two screws that you need to remove (top side and left side) from the storage tank.
I recommend that in addition to removing the bottom two drawers, you remove all the bins hanging in the fridge door, since you need to work in there with gravity wanting to shut the door on you. Once you have the tank unscrewed (and the hose ends disconnected) note which hose(based on where it connects to the tank) goes to which hole in the bottom of the fridge. Pull up the hoses from the inside the fridge. The tank is free..go put it in the sink and drain the water out.
Installing the new tank, remove any hose end caps and route the hoses back through the lower drawer support frame you pulled them out of, and feed the correct hoses back through the holes in the bottom of the fridge. I found it better to feed the longer one first, which leads to the water dispenser/front. I could then pull that one up front from under the raised fridge and clip it in place and then route the other hose fully though its hole and route it to the back of the fridge to the valve. This way I ensured I was sending the right hose to the right destination.
You will likely have to trim the hoses once the tank is reattached as they are slightly long. Be sure
