1. Moved oven from the wall. 2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet. 3. Removed over racks and bottom panel. 4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove. 5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor. 6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor. 7. Cut connector plug from new ignitor. 8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove. 9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place. 10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps. 11. Put bottom panel and racks into place. 12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.
This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.
my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it. I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.
Gas smell in Broiler and Stove when all controls to off
IF YOU DONT FEEL COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH NATURAL GAS APPLIANCES PLEASE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN. TURN OFF GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE. IF YOU CANNOT SHUT OFF THE GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN!!!!!!
Open bottom broiler drawer. Remove trays. Remove broiler drawer. Remove bolts holding heat sheild from back of oven (mine only had 2 bolt/screws holding 2 heat shields covering safty valve). Remove Heat shield. Unscrew 3/8" gas line feeding into safty valve on right. Remove 3 bolt/screws hold safety valve on back of oven. Remove Safty valve from oven. Unscrew Mounting Nut from old valve and place on new valve. Remount the new safty valve. Re-attach 3/8" gas line feeding into saftly valve. Replace heat sheild. Replace broiler drawer. Replace racks on broiler drawer. close Stove. Turn gas back on. Make sure you dont smell gas (I would wait at least 15 minutes before turning stove on to make sure there is no gas leak).
The R&R of the defective thermostat was at first look relatively simple. The job was made more complicated because in order to remove the old thermostat and then route the new thermostat across the top of the stove, under the burners, and down through a small hole into the oven space I had to remove the whole top of the stove. This process is not hard, just time consuming. Be very careful of razor sharp edges, they make you bleed. The final calibration of the oven is an easy adjustment in the oven knob. All in all it was an good experience.
first i removed the screws that held the element and put the other one on. still would not heat . so i took the back of stove ,sides of stove loose to trace wires and under the top of stove i found a wire that comes from oven switch had been bitten into by a mouse wire nutted and electrical taped the wire back togeather and it workes fine . keep in mind there are 3 thinge that could be wrong. it goes from the switch, to the gas valve in broialer to the igniter switch,gas,fire .
I removed all the burner heads with a torx driver & released the top of the stove by pushing in two clips with a screwdriver. I raised the top and located the thermostat as it fed through back of stove, then tied a line to the old thermostat to be used to pull the new one through. This did not work, so I removed a cover on the back of stove to provide more room & spread insulation apart so i could see hole. I was able to easily feed new thermostat through hole and reassemble.
I removed the whole burner (3 screws) and the igniter (2 screws). IGNITER comes from Mfg. boxed with wrong plug on igniter - however they supply two porclean nuts so that the wires can be cut and joined. I recommend that you use the plug off the old igniter and splice it to the new part, so that it will plug into the stove's existing plug
Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
It all began one find night baking and suddenly the oven would not light up. And so for the next few years all I ever used the stove for was for stove top cooking, See Im a single guy so its not in my nature to get to fancy when it comes to cooking home meals,but after a while the mood changes and you finally get up the motivation to fix whats wrong. The change over went easy,easier than I expected.And the part worked just fine. As far as ease of the order and receipt,couldnt have been better,I got the part within 48hrs and that is fast! Thanks to all. T.Melillo
