2 hexhead screws on back side of igniter with no room to get to them.
They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.
Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.
Oven would not work. Burners worked fine. Igniter would not glow.
It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.
• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall. • Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line. • Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools. • Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is. • Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place. • Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is. • Remove the igniter 1-2 screws • Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered**** • Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under**** • Reassemble the range and replace the drawer. • Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.
Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.
Removed shelves and floor of oven. Removed burner unit to access screws attaching igniter to burner unit. Disconnected wires of igniter. Put new igniter in place and reinstalled burner unit. Reconnected wires using supplied wire nuts. Tested unit. Reinstalled oven floor and shelves once successfully tested. Cooked Pizza.
Replace igniter in oven. It was a simple repair and only required that I unplugged the power cord from the unit, remove the base and 2 screws holding the igniter.
We bought our replacement burners from Part Select.com at half the price of another major appliance store. They came fast & fit perfect. All around, we are very happy.
I'm still repairing. The igniter was replaced with new but it still doesn't glow. I'm waiting for a schematic that is being mailed to me from GE. In the meantime I have borrowed a test instrument to check that the system is hot when the BAKE button is pushed. The controls light up as expected but no glow. The BROIL igniter glows when activated, lighting the broiler. The new Ignite was packaged very well so it isn't suspect. I LEFT YOU FOR A FEW HOURS. I tested the electrical with a meter and got zero voltage. I removed the wire nuts and using two alligator clips I connected the meter to the bare wires coming from the oven wall. I then hit BAKE again and BINGO! Replaced the defective wire nut and now the igniter is happy as a clam. --- Thanks for your interest and for expediting the material.
