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Replace glowbar igniter
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!
I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.
Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.
In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.
In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off. Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover. Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed. Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver Placed new Igniter on Plug Igniter in and tested oven Replace burner cover and drawer
This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!
I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.
I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.
the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part
Lost the neutral wire to the house which caused the range electronics to fail
The oven would not light and the clock was out. The surface burners worked.
Replaced the stoves control board using the instructions provided on this site. I would just like to add that you should unplug the stove before beginning and also know how to turn off the gas should anything happen while pulling the stove away from the wall to get to the rear to remove the control board.
It was an easy process which took about 30 minutes. A lot of that was cleaning behind the stove. The control board perfectly matched the one on my 1998 stove so I guess it is good for another 20 years.
I ordered the new control board and installed it, no problem there. I attached the control knob on the new panel and tested the control switch and it would not turn at all. I still have not powered the control panel up at this time. I immediately called back to explain my problem with Parts Select. The person on the phone said that Parts Select will get another panel out to me and give me credit on the defective panel. A few days later I received the control panel replacement and did not install it until I tested the switch. it, too, did not function at all. Both panels seemed to be locked up. I called GE repair center and I find out that this panel is defective straight from the manufacturer and that he has 9 in his truck that are new and they too do not work ! I reported this problem with Parts Select and have been credited on the second panel. I have called GE direct and ordered a new panel and requested that it be tested and approved before shipment. I am now awaiting on the new Panel from GE.
Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim. Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
The trim piece on the bottom of the door was rusted making the unit look really dirty and used.
It was pretty simple. Just remove the door as the bottom piece holds all the parts together. Place on table top and remove old trim. Install new trim and install door. The only difficult part was the trim had a space for the glass door front. I opened up the space so that the glass would seat easier. Went together real easy. Stove looks like it's brand new.
