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Faulty bulb receptacle
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
A high flame was coming out of the side of the burner
Easy......pulled out the old one easily and popped in the new one.......saved a lot of money...no repair bill for either diagnostic fee or assembly fee ...No mark up for the part either. Very happy mom!
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.
Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.
If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.
TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN
Oven burner would periodically go out and re-light
The ignitor is held on by two screws which were rusted in place. When I tried to remove them, the screws became stripped and had to be cut off.
Once the part was free, the rest of the repair went quickly . At that point: - Pull the element leads enough to get to the plastic connector - Disconnect the old part - Connect the new part - Re-attach to the bracket with new screws.