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Replaced upper over light and assembly
I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.
1960's oven door gasket fell apart, actual gasket not available any more
Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.
Turned burner about 1/16 turn to left. Lifted burner from stove. Disconnected two wire connectors. Connected same wires to new burner. Set burner in place and turned 1/16 turn to right. Tested burner. Lighter worked on first attempt and burned perfectly. Took about 3 1/2 minutes.
BURNER DID NOT IGNITE. HOLE ON SIDE OF BURNER HAD A HOLE, SO FLAME WAS UNEVEN.
USED CHANNELOCK PLIERS TO ROTATE BURNER COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. PULLED OFF THE CONNECTORS, APPLIED RUST TREATMENT TO THE REPLACEMENT PART, WHICH HAD ITSELF STARTED TO CORRODE. SPADE LUGS ON THE OLD PART HAD A SPADE ADAPTER, BUT THE CONNECTION SEEMED TO WORK REGARDLESS OF THE MISS-MATCH. PART WAS REPLACED, TURNING THE BURNER CLOCK-WISE. VERY QUICK AND EASY REPAIR.
Oven ignitor would glow but took 30 - 40 mins to heat
It took me 10 mins to replace the oven igniter and I did it myself. Oven is working fine now. I saved myself a $300.00 repair bill. Thank you for making the part available and saving me dollars!
Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!
Original burner was eroded on the bottom and flame was coming from undernealth the burner
Very easy. I disconnected the original burner with one turn as well as the two wire connections for the electronic igniter. I then connected the wires to the same positions on the new burner and placed the new burner in place with one half turn to match the indented openings to secure the burner tightly in place.
I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the part and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.
The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I would absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!
