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broken lens over oven light
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
Took screws out back of oven to get to connectors . Pulled old conectors off Installed new element took about 5 min. Very easy job. Also good time to clean oven .
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
L.F. large burner element either on full hot or off. Would not cycle in and out with element control switch setting.
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.
purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.
the indicator light for burners broke and shorted agaist the back panel on range
This caused the burner switch cotacts to arc burning out the switches. It took 30 or 43 minutes to replace the switches and put the range back together. The bake element took 10 min. ti replace. Grandma has her range back and I am a happy grandpa!! Thanks for the help and we saved over $170.00 for the repairs. Jim Johnson
my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great