Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
I had a broken crisper drawer cover and a missing door shelf on my fridge for as long as I've lived here, so while organizing the fridge one day I decided to see if I could just replace those two parts.
Literally all I needed to do for the door shelf was press it into place, and for the crisper drawer cover so just needed to remove the crisper drawers, lift away the glass shelf (after removing contents from the fridge, obviously) and then remove the drawer frame and replace the broken one (which again, had been broken from before I moved in here almost six years ago!), and then reassemble. It's very nice to have space for seltzer or beer cans in the door and not to have the sagging shelf like I had before. Worth the money and very easy to source.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.
Fridge started making a loud racket. Condenser Fan Blade then disintegrated to dust and pieces. The plastic had degraded significantly.
The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.
If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.
In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.
Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.
Just like the video , just pull out the crisper drawers and slide the new one in. I also made sue that I had a quilt on the floor in case I dropped the glass shelf. Also if you are not sure of the model number you can try calling the store where you bought the appliance at which I had to do. I bought it at Conns and they just needed the phone number I used when I bought it.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
Remove screws from lower hinge and carefully remove the door. In my case it was the lower bearing, flip door upside down being careful to remove anything which might fall off first. I removed the door stop and then pulled the broken bearing out with pliers. Then I pushed the new one in and reassembled it.
Turned off fridge circuit breaker Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler. Removed shelves from freezer Removed ice maker Removed 2 hex head screws Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection. Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge. Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer. Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover. Cut wires near thermostat and removed Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place. Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected. Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover. Reinstalled ice maker Reinstalled shelves. Put food back in Turned circuit breaker back on.
