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Top cools bottom is weak
Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.
Remove screws from lower hinge and carefully remove the door. In my case it was the lower bearing, flip door upside down being careful to remove anything which might fall off first. I removed the door stop and then pulled the broken bearing out with pliers. Then I pushed the new one in and reassembled it.
Turned off fridge circuit breaker Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler. Removed shelves from freezer Removed ice maker Removed 2 hex head screws Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection. Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge. Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer. Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover. Cut wires near thermostat and removed Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place. Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected. Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover. Reinstalled ice maker Reinstalled shelves. Put food back in Turned circuit breaker back on.
Fridge started making a loud racket. Condenser Fan Blade then disintegrated to dust and pieces. The plastic had degraded significantly.
The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.
If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.
In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.
Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.
Just like the video , just pull out the crisper drawers and slide the new one in. I also made sue that I had a quilt on the floor in case I dropped the glass shelf. Also if you are not sure of the model number you can try calling the store where you bought the appliance at which I had to do. I bought it at Conns and they just needed the phone number I used when I bought it.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Removed drawer. Removed shelve. Flipped shelve over. Removed one screw. Undid tab on each end. Removed bad rail. Replaced with new rail and reversed order. Easy fix.
The parts were easily replaceable. No special instructions needed. Just identify and remove and replace. I didn't know which specific part needed to be replaced (both reported to fix my problem) but neither part was very expensive so I replaced both. No special tools needed. 1/4" nutdriver and phillips head screwdriver. Repair took about 30 minutes. I did have to make an adjustment on the defrost timer (a small dial on the unit) I just set it how the old part was set. I immediately knew it was going to work when I plugged the refrigerator back in and the fan motor inside the freezer kicked on. Easy peesy...
freezer cold and frosting up but refrigerator warm
inside the freezer compartment, remove four hex head screws from rear panel,lift panel forward and unplug wire assembly from panel. find old defrost thermostat attached to copper tube by clip on back of thermostat, unclip, snip two wires to thermostat, take new thermostat, strip 1/4"of wire from wires in freezer (thermostat is prestripped),insert light blue wire from thermostat and light blue wire from freezer into opposite ends of crimp connector and crimp securely. repeat with dark blue wires. set panel back in freezer,connect plug to back of panel, refasten screws and you are go to go! save yourself the price of a new refrigerator or $300 repair by repairman!
I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!
