Remove lower cardboard refrigerator panel. Carefully pull existing cracked fan blade off of the motor shaft and replace with new fan blade. Reinstall cardboard panel.
The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.
Figuring out how to remove the cracked door rack was the most complication I had. Once I figured out how to push it up it was easy to remove and then replace it with the new part by just placing it over the nobs and pushing down. No tools needed, just hands.
Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch. Now what?
Fridge and freezer both freezing at bottom and warm at top.
Unplugged fridge. Removed freezer shelves and unscrewed and removed plastic shelf brackets. Removed the lower rear panel. Removed the bin for ice. Removed the 2 exposed upper rear panel screws. At this point I was able to flex the panel quite enough to access the fan motor. Carefully plugged the fridge back in and turned it on long enough to verify the existing evap. fan motor was not running. Powered off and unplugged again. Removed the fan and it's support assembly, and replaced with new. Had to cut the wires and splice and crimp with the provided wire nuts since the plugs in this model were different. Powered on fridge to check fan function. Reassemble and go home looking' like a hero! Saved my BFF a couple hundred bucks.
The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil. The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.
No freezing or cold in either freezer or refridgerator - compressor did not run.
Traced issue to defrost timer ( burned compressor & element contacts). This unit is mounted next to the temperature adjustment control in the refridgerator area - right in front. Removal of plastic cover provided easy access to the timer. Unit unscrews from the mounting then unplugs. Installation is reverse of removal.
Super easy it took no more than 5 minutes to replace the fridge door racks. Starting from opening the box when it arrived to closing the fridge door with the new racks in place. no tools needed, except a knife to open the box.