Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge side too cold
Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.
The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!
The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.
Freezer was cold but the fridge was warm. Back panel of fridge was building up frost
First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .
The process: Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.
I pulled out the old support stud with a pair of pliers, pushed the new stud in, and gave it a few taps with the hammer to secure it in the fridge wall. For the door bin I just slid the new bin in place.
It was fairly easy. Only had to remove the back cardboard. Remove 3 screws and the power plug. Replacing the screws took a little time the motor mount didn't seem to be tapped exactly for the screws supplied and it was in a tight area. Its working great now.
The door had a loud popping noise everytime you opened it.
The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.
Pull refrigerator away from wall, being careful not to kink or break water line to ice maker, unplug refrigerator. Using 1/4" nutdriver, remove cardboard lower rear panel, bottom lifts out. Fan and motor are now directly in front of you, grasp the moter to stablize it, and using your other hand, pull fan hub from motor shaft. Be sure motor shaft is clean before reinstalling new fan blade, press new bladr onto motor shaft, until center of blade is centered on outlet side of fan housing. spin blade by hand to insure clearance. Plug refrigerator in and observe operation of fan, refrigerator needs to be calling for cooling for this fan to operate. Reinstall cardboard panel and move refrigerator back into position.
evaporator coil would freeze up solid. no air flow through coil; no cooling.
-unplug power cord.(safety first! -Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective. -use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up. -unclip thermostat from coil. -cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat. -clip on new defrost thermostat. -connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included) -replace coil cover. -plug power cord back in.
Hinge bearing broke causing door to rub when opened
I removed the screw in the plastic cover on the top of the fridge that covered the fridge side hinge first. Then, I removed the two nuts with a nut driver that hold the hinge in place. After removing the two nuts and the hinge, I lifted the door up and out of the bottom hinge and placed it on a flat surface. I used a pair of pliers next to pull out the broken hinge bearing from the bottom of the door itself. After removing the old bearing I inserted the new bearing in the door. Next, I put the door back on making sure the hinge went into the hinge bearing and put the door in the closed position. After that was all done and the door was set properly, I put the top hinge back on with the two screws and put the plastic cover back in place. Took 20min to complete. A second set of hands would have been helpful with putting the door back on, but it can be done by yourself.
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.