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The refrigerator wasn't cold enough.
I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.
removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!
My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.
First I determined the icemaker was the problem when it was no longer calling for water. You can hear that "whistle" for 6-7 seconds when it calls for water. Anyway, replacement was a piece of cake, but did not entirely fix my problem. I also had to flush the lines to the soloniods that allow water to flow through the filter and into the water storage tank because it was cloggged with a little piece of plastic.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
The rack was broken and the meat drawer would fall down when pulled out. Had to use one hand to steady drawer while selecting meat/cheese.
Just like the very helpful video. Took the drawer out. Lifted the glass cover out. Took 2 screws out and extracted broken rail. Placed the new rail in with 2 screws. Voila! Easy-peasy.
Freezer was freezing but refridgerator was warm. Checked fan and it was not turning.
Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.
BOUGHT NEW ICEMAKER TOOK TWO SCREWS OUT, UNPLUGGED THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. REMOVED OLD ICEMAKER, PUT TWO SCREWS BACK INTO REFRIGERATOR(DON'T SCREW ALL THE WAY IN AS THE NEW ICE MAKER WILL FIT ON. HOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND ADAPTER (THAT COMES WITH IT). PUT THE DRAIN TUBE IN ITS SPOT, HOOK ICE MAKER ONTO THE TWO SCREWS TIGHTEN EM DOWN. I DID THIS RIGHT BEFORE I WENT TO A BIRTHDAY DINNER WITH MY HUSBAND, WAS ALREADY DRESSED AND READY TO GO AND I TOLD HIM ILL PUT IT IN SO WE CAN HAVE ICE WHEN WE RETURN. ENDED UP BEING A SURPRISE PARTY FOR ME AND WHEN WE RETURNED WE HAD ICE. IT WAS SO EASY EVEN A GIRL CAN DO IT!!
After disassembling, the thermal fuse I ordered were not and exact fit, I had to cut off the ring terminals, strip the insulation back and splice it in. It works.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
Compressor Starter/Overload relay burned and smoked
Heard the snap of a short circuit followed by a burning smell around the refrigerator. Pulled it out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a nut driver. Plugged it back in and when the compressor kicked on I saw sparks and some smoke at the relay. Unplugged and ordered new relay and the associated run capacitor in case it was also bad. Removed the holding clip and the relay with capacitor easily came out with two wires attached. Removing the wires was done by prying with needle nose pliers with some difficulty. Inserting the wires into the new relay was also difficult. If the position isn't just right it does not snap in. Once it is positioned correctly it makes a positive connection with not much effort. Reassembled the capacitor, plugged unit into compressor, added retaining clip and plugged in refrigerator. Compressor started up correctly. Note that as the refrigerator cools the compressor will shut off for long periods of time. This is normal.
