Took longer to take out the shelves and the 10 screws holding the cover on then to replace the fan. Local parts supply told me it would take two weeks to get the fan mator,ordered it from parts select and had in a couple days.
I removed the screws and replace the broken slide with the new slide. Put the basket drawer back on the track and it now stays in place and can easily be used once again.
freezer would frost up and not get cold enough to keep frozen.
Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.
Freeze would not re-start after temp rose above 23 degrees.
Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
Cooling coils would ice up and fridge would warm up
I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.
My Freezer Was Frosting Up, My Ice Maker Was Not Working ,And My Fridge Was Warm.
Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.
Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!
