Removed power, removed the ice maker being held with three screws. Replaced with old unit. This box was so old that I robbed parts from the old and placed them on the new unit. Mkes ice very good.
Turn off the water source and unplug freezer. Remove copper tube and then remove valve from back of refrigerator. Disconnect plastic tube and power connection. Mark power connection plug top with a "T", this reminder helps with the new valve. Plug power and plastic tube into new valve and screw assembly back into refrigerator. Using a wrench, connect copper tube into valve. Restore water source and plug back in in freezer. Within a couple hours, ice production was back. Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.
It's self-explanatory. The procedure is obvious; it's just a little difficult. The only hard part is attaching the mounting brackets to the fan. If you can't tighten the mounting bolts, loosen them and reposition the brackets. You might end up mispositioning them at first, because they are hard to reach.
older range required no tools to repair, pulled old gasket out of notches at bottom of door, popped clips out of pre-drilled holes, folded new gasket ends {2 inches} and pushed into door, pushed clips into place.
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Took a long time to light oven, smell of gas, slow heat up.
Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed which has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!
First I removed all the screws from the back cover. 2nd removed fan nut and fan blade 3rd removed fan bracket 4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts. Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord Reinstalled fan nut and blade, reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!
Replaced the water valve. I knew that the ice maker was working by watching the movement. It was not getting water to it, s I figured it was the electric water valve and sure enough, that fixed the problem.
first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.
