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Oven would not light
Disconnected power cord to range Removed the cover over the flame guard Removed the Flame guard Pulled out broiler drawer Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor Cut the two wires from the old ignitor Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector Installed the new ignitor Reassembled parts dsassembled Plugged in power cord
Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!
Both hinges on the oven door were broken , door would not close or open easily
I watched a you tube video from the reference library at reference oven door repairs and the explanation was clear and simply understood , even though the oven type was not exact, very easy to follow.
remove the bottom storage door unhook 2 return spring check with flash light install support under the top cook door and open the top door slowly , remove 3 screws at the bracket slide out the hinge with springs and slide out the hinge from the door install the 2 springs the same way you take it out and reinstall bracket and screws and springs and your done just picture and remember the you remove and reinstall i did it and i'm not a handy man i got happy when i did it my self i said wow to my self if i called some repair guy he possible wil charge me at least $ 125 to $ 150 for 25 min job
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .
Took a long time to light oven, smell of gas, slow heat up.
Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed which has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!
first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.
take off the old by unsceawing it scraw thenew one onput the wires down the back throw the hole put the wires to gather and cap tham plug the elect. back in and turn it on for to test it wow it worked he he ...richard
Oven would not come on, broiler worked and so did the burners
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... And re-connected the same way. Peice of cake..
Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test. Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.
oven took longer and longer to ignite ,then just stopped.
took out the cove plate inside oven. romoved old igniter load.cutt and stripped new wire to new ignighter , using ceramic wire nuts supplied. reinstalled all and voila. it's as good as new. PS just for safety sake always unplug appliance from power.
My Oven Was Taking Too Long To Heat Up,I Was Smelling Gas,Which Is The First And Last Warning
Simple repair ,unplug unit,cut the 2 wires close to heating element,remove elements 2 screws w/1/4 inch nut driver. Cut and strip 2 wires back about 1/2 inch,be sure to cut wires close to element,wirenut both wires together. Reinstalled element,plug unit back in. Done . . . 12 Minutes,ready to bake a cake. .
The ignitor came on with a call for heat but the gas valve did not open
First turn the thermostat off-cut the wires leading to the ignitor, close to the ignitor side-Remove the two 1/4" monting bracket screws and remove the ignitor install the new ignitor using the same 1/4" screws and reconnect the wires leading into the ignitor, note the polarity is not imp[ortant--use the heat temp-wire nuts provided--close the door and call for heat the gas valve is working fine now....
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I reattached the new piece. It was the easiest thing ever and i'm a woman!