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Door latch (female part) was broken.
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.
one of ears that holds filter was broken leaving a small gap so lint went into duct work so i replaced the cover and filter is now held in place letting the filter do its job trapping the lint
After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.
Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!
This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Pump but not spin-oil leaking-agitation noise
Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the long shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.
I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.
Washer would not Agitate or spin out. Also noticed an oil leak.
I followed instructions provided from Parts Select for removing and replacing the coupler assembly, and also instructions for changing the clutch assembly. I also took it's transmission apart (socket set and flat screwdriver required), drained the old oil, cleaned it, added new 90W gear oil. The instructions covered the swapping of parts very well. Cleaning up the oil spill took as long as changing the parts.
Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.
Removed the rinse dispenser from Agitator. Unbolted and removed agitator from machine. Directions said remove upper agitator by pulling apart. Had to brace bottom with both feet, and lift straight up. Came off. Replaced 4 cogs, re=assembled and re-installed.
Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.
Anyone with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart. On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap). Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back. Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug. From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic. After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.
First, let me start off by saying - this part wouldn't normally break. Because it's a stackable, and my dryer motor went out, the repair company had to move the entire unit from the cubicle. When the repairman tried moving it by using the washer lid ... lets just say he broke the clip. And then we could never get them to come fix the part they broke!
So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.
Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.
Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.
Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.
Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).
!. Removed agitator from inside 2.Removed outside cabinet 3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission. 4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom 5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new. 6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.
