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Kenmore Series 80 Lazy Spin
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.
Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss. 1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor. 2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve". 3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install. 4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft. 5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner. 6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place. 7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough. 8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place. 9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!
Squealing noise when filling washer; water leak in tub; cold water filling slowly.
Removed screws from top control panel. Tilted panel back. Unsnapped two retaining clips and pulled entire washer cover forward. Turned off water and uplugged washer. Disconnected hot and cold water supply. Disconnected supply tube from water inlet valve. Disconnected electrical hook-ups to water inlet valve. Removed water inletvalve. Installed new valve being careful to use new mounting plate supplied and making sure screw holes line up correctly. Re-connected all disconnects and it works like new!
Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.
I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The washer pumps but does not spin
I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.
will not go over step by step here as there are already a multitude of stories on site with exact situation as mine who have already done so.. What I will say is that PartSelect is easily the absolutely best site on the net for a complete problem diagnosis to finished repair experience. Just input your model # and describe the problem and you get instant diagnosis probabilities along with access to a long list of customer Q & A and reviews, along with step by step videos on diagnosing, dis- assembling, and re-assembling along with links to all parts needed and also some secondary tips along the way. The prices are fabulous (example: I got a clutch assembly kit with several parts and 2 additional parts as a just in case for $55 shpg incl, while my local appliance parts place wanted $59 plus tax for just the main part in my assembly kit with a no return policy and no part guarantee, plus it was only 1 day more to have PartSelect pkg arrive than I would have gotten part from local store). This site is FABULOUS !!!
i could not perform the repair because despite using the proper id numbers, i received the wrong parts from kenmore three times in a row. now i am trying to return the wrong parts which cost me 120.00 for the start switch, and the knob for the switch, so far. the switch was 40.00 the simple plastic button was (wrong) 40.00, and the wrong unidentifiable part, suposedly correct one, which also was 40.00. this, with the original 40.00 wrong switch amounted to the 120.00 that i am still trying to have returned. otherwise, the fix should be quick and simple, o yeah, its been three months.. you tell me if i am satisfied....
1. Removed back panel. 2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor. 3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly. 4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off. 4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub. 5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one. ------------------------------------------------------------ Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary. All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.
