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Dryer door latch broke and door wouldn’t stay shut.
Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )
Unplugged stove . Removed floor of oven . Easy . Removed the ignitor ,near back of stove under removed floor . .Left it in place to enable locating where wire came through back of stove . Pulled the stove away from wall . Removed back panel of stove . followed ignitor wire to its plug in position . Returned to the front of stove . Inserted new ignitor wire through back wall of stove . Went behind stove , pulled wire through enough to plug new ignitor into proper position . Put back panel onto stove . Pushed stove back against wall . Went back into oven to screw new ignitor into place . Replaced oven floor panels . Put cooking racks back in . Wife proceeded to bake once again .
Unplugged dryer, unscrewed back, and replaced fuse. Easy as 123. Video showed what to do step by step! I am not a handy man, just a woman trying to be money5 smart. Anyone could do this and save on home repairs.
I first watched the helpful video on website. Un- plugged the dryer. I removed the back cover and tested the thermal fuse with the multi meter. Ordered the replacement part. Replaced the Thermal Fuse, and put the back cover back on. This was a very easy fix! It takes longer to remove the back cover of the dryer than it does to replace the fuse. While I had the back cover I used my air compressor to blow out any lint. This dryer is as good as new now. this site fast shipper, Great website.
I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
Old. Original heat seal was deteriorated and peeling off. Streaks were getting on the clothes.
Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.
This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side. Instructions: 1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor. Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer & screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn. 2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level. 3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position. 4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment. 5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.
I checked continuity of all electrical points. I took the top off, then the back, and front of the dryer off so it was easy to inspect the whole dryer. I was also able to clean unwanted dust, and lent with a shop vacuum by doing this. Keep track of different screws, and mark each screw location with a permanent magic marker. Taking pictures with camera phone is very helpful. Pay attention to electrical connections as well, some of those will need to be dismantled. Try not to take apart anything more than needed. Watching some online video's can be very helpful as well. If uncomfortable doing this, call a service repair technician. I'm a farm boy, and repairs usually come easy to me, but not always.