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Water would not stop coming in when ran all the time
unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done
washer would partially fill itself when not in use
I had to call in to find the correct part because the online recommended part looked very different, and the one found using the model number had no photo, so I was VERY leary of ordering. The service rep said that Kenmore products did not always show up correctly and he gave me the part number needed and there was a photo. The part was not exactly the same, but looked very similar and it was more than 50% less than the original recommended part and part with no photo. I thought that the problem finding Kenmore parts was odd since Kenmore is like number one, right? Part took 3 days to arrive, which I thought was great. Turned off power and water. Removed water hoses. Removed three screws from the back of the top (front loader). Removed the top. Removed a screw holding on the water inlet valve from the outside of the unit through the back cover which required a star driver. Unattached the 4 electrical leads. Unattached the outlet water hose (held on with a squeeze type metal clamp -not sure of the exact name for these). The problem that I had was that the water outlet hose bib attachment was slightly larger than the old one, so the hose would go back on, but the clamp was too small so I cusses a lot before figuring out the problem. I had to go and purchase a new larger clamp. After that, I simply attached the electrical connections and put the outlet back on. One other small problem was that the place where the screw through the back cover was originally attached no longer lined up with the new valve. The plastic piece was shorter than the old one so the screw hole did not line up with the hole in the back panel. The screw isn't really necessary. Overall, replacing the part was easy and I was pleased with the process.
tub shaking so bad washer would walk away from the wall
the tube when spinning the tub would shake so bad the washer would walk away from the wall but it will not happen anymore since I put the new spring on it runs great and this is not my first rodeo. Removed the outer part to timer controls then removed two screws then shell in front came off the body
1- Remove power connection, remove water connections. 2- Remove the top controller box and free it from its hinges. 3- Loosen the back cover to get access to water valve assembly. 4- Remove hose clamp connected to inlet water valve. 5- Remove the old water valve which is secured with 1/4" screw. 5- For installation perform step 5 to 1 and then test your Installation.
When washer was in cold water rinse cycle, loud squealing noise.
unplug unit first Took water & drain hose loose, used two wheel dolly, took washer out on patio. Removed water hose. Removed two screws # 49 an laid back control unit then Removed 2 #6 Clips Top of unit, then pried back unit cover out enough to remove Water valve after removing #4 screw that holds unit to back panel ,removed hose clamp #21 an electric connections, install new water valve and put back together..DO NOT TAKE BOTTOM SCREWS FROM BACK PANEL, if so the bottom will drop.. Intake cold water valve was half stopped up. Also new water lines.
The washer would drain, but was screaming while doing nothing else.
The tough part was replacing the front cabinet. I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring. Thank you for that bit.
I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone. Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.
The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble. It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.
Unplugged the power while the washer was running, and the water kept on running. The water inlet valve was stuck open. I removed the inlet valve and you cold blow air thru it, it should be closed with no power applied.Ordered replacement from this site it was a perfect fit. As far as the removal and installation procedure, just follow the video as presented on this site. Good Look.
1- Unplugged washer. 2- Turned off water supply to hoses hot and cold. (marked hoses H C) 3- Unscrewed hoses to washer. 4-Used phillips head screw driver to take out screws(2) at corners of washer. 5- Slid top of washer forward and lifted top off. 6- Took out retaining clips on each side of washer. 7- Slid frame of washer outward exposing rear panel of washer for access to water inlet valve. 8- Used 1/4" drive to take out screw to inlet valve. 9- Removed inlet valve, unplugged the two connectors and removed clamp from hose to valve. 10- Replaced new inlet valve and reversed the process to assemble washer back together. Total time for repair, about 45 minutes. I now have full running cold water to washer. Thanks guys for the video you provided. Would purchase again if needed. Thanks again!!! Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket Part Number: PS334646
first of all, the parts i ordered arrived THE NEXT DAY, which is fantastic. and all for under a hundred bucks. secondly, the parts came with excellently detailed instructions that included photos, so the repair itself was pretty easy. i opened up the washer, disconnected 2 hoses, slid the entire tub/motor assembly out as directed, loosened the nuts holding the old suspension springs in place, removed the old tub spring, lifted the tub off the old suspension springs, removed and replaced the springs with new ones, and put everything back together again. tub is tight, spin cycle is nearly silent...it's like a new machine. the only reason the repair took as long as it did was because i took the opportunity to clean everything out in there--about a decade worth of grime and dust. cleaned the hoses, cleaned up the tub, cleaned under everything. this is my second repair with partselect (the dryer half of my machine went bad last month), and the second time the repair has gone flawlessly. i couldn't be happier.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Loud bang at the end of the spin cycle and symptoms of an unbalanced load.
After reading everyone elses stories, I purchased all new springs(5), new spring brackets(one of mine was rusted really badly)and all new wear pads(two sets of 3pcs each). The rusted spring bracket was the most time consuming as the screw was rusted into the bracked so I had to drill it out. Other than that, the actual spring replacement was easy. Took maybe 10 minutes. The wear pads were another story. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I had a bit of a struggle getting the old pads out. I used a long, flat head screwdriver to pry them out. Once they were out the new ones weren't too tough to get back in. Took about 20 minutes all together. I stongly recommend watching the video on removing the washer cabinet first. It will save you some time. Acutally, watch the videos on all of the parts to simplify the process. Oh and by the way, all of my washer problems are gone. Well worth my time and $70 in parts. Good web site!
