11081432510 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

My dryer started making a loud rumbling and clanking sound and I didn't know what was wrong.

First I pulled it away from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I loosened the four nut/screws across the top of the rear of the dryer with my adjustable wrench then removed them with the flathead screwdriver. Then from the front of the machine, pulled the top of the dryer towards me, freeing the top and removed it. I could see one belt towards the front of the machine that appeared to be intact. I plugged the dryer back in and ran it... It spun but continued to clank and rumble. I noticed a "groove" near the rear of the drum and didn't see a belt there so I assumed that I needed the rear belt and ordered a replacement. I WAS WRONG. It turned out that there is actually only ONE BELT on this machine, that in fact I needed replacement DRUM WHEELS.

Next, I unplugged the power cord again and then I removed all twenty some-odd screws from the rear of the machine... which was POINTLESS as it only gave me access to the heating element, so I replaced this and all the screws.

I then removed the inside top nut/screw from the front panel on both the right and left inner lip. The panel then lifted up and off of the machine...only connected at this point to the rest of the dryer by the wires.

I made a schematic of the wires and which color was connected where, and then only removed those that were necessary to detatch the front panel completely from the dryer (so I could easily replace them properly later).

I noticed at this point that the belt was still functioning (although was cracked and needed replacing soon anyways)...but that the bottom drum wheel had worn itself down on the inside (where it rests on the axle)...the rubber around the outside was still good... but the whole wheel needed replacing. The side drum wheel (same part number as bottom) appeared to be fine.

I ordered replacement DRUM WHEELS (they sell them in packages of two only).

When the wheels arrived, I got down on my hands and knees and noticed how the belt was connected to the drive spindle of the motor... by a spring levered plastic wheel... very simple. Push the spring lever towards the drive spindle of the motor...loosening the belt. Then removed the belt from the motor, relaxing the spring and the belt came off, hanging only around the drum of the dryer.

Without tension on the spring levered plastic wheel, it came off of the bottom of the dryer completely. (If your belt has broken, you most likely will find this sitting on the bottom of your dryer...I will tell you how to attach it later on in this story.).

I carefully pulled the sides of the dryer case apart and slid one side of the drum forward out of the case...then slowly slid the other side of the drum out of the case...gently lifting up and out...completely removing the drum from the machine....setting it aside.

The dryer (inside the case) was FILTHY. I got out the handheld vacuum and cleaned it all out (finding a religous medallion, an earring, and over $2.00 in change). I vacuumed the inner bottom, sides, motor, and took advantage of vacuuming the inside of the lint collector as well... cleaning it up nicely.

The bottom drum wheel was attached by a triangular plastic clip (on both sides of the wheel)...I removed the plastic clip carefully by gently prying it off with the flat edged screwdriver... being careful not to break it. There was a LOT of hair wrapped around the axle near the triangular clip and used the pliers to pull the hair off...then removed the bad wheel..then the plastic clip behind where the wheel was sitting...and the hair there as well. I cleaned off the axle thoroughly, then did the same with the other drum wheel (even though it looked fine, I replaced them both.).

I set the old side wheel aside with the old (still useable) triangular plastic clips. In the future if one of the wheels goes bad... I'll have a replacement that will get me by.

Then I slid one of the NEW triangular p

While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.

It was so easy... Pop out the old with flatblade screw driver and insert new piece... Works perfectly and looks better than the velcro strip I was using to hold the door shut...! Thanks for fast delivery and having the part available...

Regards,
JBL

REMOVE THE PANEL BETWEEN THE DRYER (above) and washer (below) two 3/8" metal screws. Remove the panel in able to remove the top panel of the washer. remove the top panel of the washer by releasing two screws in rear of washer, pull cover to front , unplug old lid switch. Put top panel on flat surface upside down. replace lid switch and replace the panel and BOB'S YOUR UNCLE. It is a lot easier than it seems.

Replaced warn springs with new ones in the kit followed the instructions that were included was quick and easy now the washer works like new

I inserted the clip

Watched the video on the website... and did what it said to do. It was VERY helpful... It did not fix the problem... so now I'm on to the next possible solution. Also, provided by the website. The valve was the problem 85% of the time. The water level switch is the problem 10% of the time. The water level switch is what I ordered next.
Ordering is EASY and delivery is fast with available tracking of the shipment. Very nice...! -Eddie Campbell

First off, I unplugged the AC cord and disconnected the Hot and Cold water hoses. I partially removed the back of the washer with a screwdriver. There were two screws holding the control panel in place and once they were removed it simply fell forward onto the top of the machine. That allowed me to pull the back plate free and remove the old water inlet valve. I had to first disconnect the two AC leads from the valve along with the small hose that supplies water to the tub. The small hose had a compression clamp on it that came off with pliers. After removing the two screws that secured the valve to the back of the machine the old valve simply came out. Insallation was the reverse. I will add that when removing the controll panel there are two S shaped clips (one either side of the panel) that need to be removed using a screw driver. Be careful not to push too hard as they may fall into the machine. I also replaced both the Hot and Cold wataer hoses. All in all it was a very easy repair. I read and followed the instructions of others that posted their experience right here which was a HUGE help-thanks everyone and thanks to Part Select for the prompt delivery. I orderd the part on a Sunday and received it on Tuesday-how awesome is that?!

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

Watched the video and followed the instructions. Everything went smoothly and the repair was done in under 15 minutes, less time than it took to mop up the water when it overflowed telling me that there was a problem.

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

I called a repairman, who diagnosed the problem as a faulty leaf switch in the lid assembly -- the little rod on the lid that normally would depress the switch was working fine, but the switch was not closing. At my direction, he bridged the wires from the switch as a test, and it worked fine. So I ordered a new switch from you guys and swapped the new one out with the old one. Two flat screws to remove the slanted top panel, and at the rear of the panel are two hex-top screws holding the lid assembly on. Undo the hex-top screws, lift off the lid assembly, unplug the interlock between the washing machine power and the lid, and find a clean place to lay the lid assembly. Replacing the switch is a snap -- the part you sold came with its own wiring, and all it takes is take the old part out and put the new part in. Easy peasy. Getting the lid assembly back takes a little work because the fasteners are a little tricky to position correctly -- they will fall off the lid assembly and repositioning them may involve a bit of trial and error -- but once it is properly positioned, it takes a total of six screws and you're done. Two for the switch (Philips), two hex heads to fasten the lid assembly to the washer chassis, two to button up the front access panel.. A caution -- make sure the machine is unplugged when you do the repair, or else the washing machine may cycle into a spin cycle when you plug the interface back in and surprise you.

The instructional video that was attached with the part I purchased was spot on with very simple instructions. The inlet valve came with a metal bracket that was not needed for my model, so just tossed it. Was completed with replacement in about 30 minutes with help from my aspiring handywoman wife (would have taken 15 minutes without her)