11076450220 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting

Unscrew the lintfilter opening, lift the upper plate, open the front panel and lower panel. Take the broken belt out and insert the new belt. Close everything and start the dryer. That’s it.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

found a video online and followed the instructions. First unplug dryer, then take off back cover with a 1/4 inch socket unscrew the 5 screws from the cover and remove back. Then with a ohms meter you have to check to see what terminals are bad. In my case it was the heating element. So, next you go to top of dryer and unscrew the lint trap so you can lift the top of dryer and remove the bracket holding the housing where the element is located. First take off the leads that are connected to the element and housing unit. Then gently lift housing unit up off the hinges and pull it out. Then turn over and there is another screw that holds the heating element in. After unscrewed the element pulls right out and then just put new element in and reverse everything.

The first step was to check the electrical supply to make sure I had power 120 volt. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas supply and turned the dryer around so I could have access to the back panel removed panel to access the wiring harness and safety thermostats. All switches and wire checked good with my ohmmeter .I pulled off the front kick panel and checked the electrical schematic and found the door switch was in the circuit to check it I had to lift up the top and pop out the front to access the door switch checked switch and found it defective. Replaced switch vacuumed out dryer and vent reassembled dryer and all worked good.

I followed the video. So easy..

Unplug Cord of course.

I removed 2 screws holding the lint trap housing in place and pulled the top forward and up. I then lifted the front panel up and wiggled it a little and it came free and I put it aside. I got on the floor and removed the belt from the motor by lifting the tension pulley releasing the tension and pulling the belt sideways. The drum easily lifted out at this point and I placed it on some newspaper and towels I had placed on the floor in advance.

I then peeled of all the belt that would come off at this point and then took some paper towels and wet them with acetone and worked just few inches at a time so the acetone would not evaporate before I got the glue off. This went much quicker and easier than I dared hope. From there it was just a matter of applying an even bead of glue all around and quickly starting in one spot and putting on the new belt making sure it was all the way back and pulling it tight as it is only just long enough so you don't want to get to the end and wind up short and your glue already set.

I then gathered my $2.37 tip from the bottom of the dryer and vacuumed the lint that was there while I let the glue set some more.

Putting the drum back on was a tad tricky but not bad. Just concentrate on getting it between the idler wheels and the hub first. Make sure the lower wheel is pulled forward. I Used a small box and some cardboard to hold the drum at the right height while I put the belt back on although if you have some extra hands available now would be a good time to get them. Then having put the front panel within reach I pulled out the box and replaced the panel, lowered the top and replaced the screws, spun it by hand then tried it with power. All is good. Time about 45 min.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.

Followed the instruction given by previous writers in these post.
Hint The bungee cord hook was used to hold up the lid, worked very well.
If you are by yourself use duct tape to hold the drum in place before removing the front panel. Tape the top rear of the drum to the rear frame. Also do this when reassembling the front panel.
Easy and quick makes the wife happy this time.
PS. Ordered the parts on Sunday and had them on Tuesday.

Did not hear the "clicking noise of the door switch when the dryer door was shut. First I unplugged the dryer from the socket. Next I removed the two screws that hold the lint filter receptacle. Next I pried the top of the dryer open with a screwdriver. Next I removed the two screws that held the switch actuator spring in place located just inside the top of the door. Then I removed the old spring from the door switch and replaced with the new. Not too difficult once the problem was diagnosed.

After reading about repairs to the drum rollers, it was suggested to change the rear drum seal at the same time. The drum rollers were very easy to change and took no time at all. The rear seal was a different story. The instructions in the packet could have been more explicit. The seal has to be streched around the drum at first. Then and only then can you install the seal on the drum edge. You should also have several clamps available to hold the seal in place as you glue the outside flap. Leave the clamps in place until the glue dries, then re-install the drum.

I realized from this issue years ago that it was porbably the heating element. I took the dryer to the garage and remove the back and figured out how to get the heating element out. Once I had it out it had a break in the coil so I knew I needed that part. I hit parts select on line and ordered the part. I left everything in the garage and waited for the part. In a couple of days it came and I put it in and took the dryer back to the laundy knook, gave it a test run and Its all good!