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Very Loud Squeaking Noise
1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30
Our dryer started squealing and would then stop running.
After determining that the dryer motor was the issue I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com.
I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.
The price was fair and the delivery quick so I figured I would give yuo guys a shot and see how it goes.
The part showed up on time and as expected. It was well packed and most importantly - it was the CORRECT part.
I disassembled the dryer which involved removing the lint trap, pulling out the blower fan and removing the motor cover. The motor was held in with 2 metal screws and wiring harness.
I took the belt off of the tensioner and pulled out the old motor. The motor was mounted with 2 clips which snapped off with ease. Reassembly was a breeze since the motor fit perfectly- the entire transplant operation took all of about 35 minutes.
I crossed my fingers, turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS!
Since the dryer was down for over a week the backlog of laundry was piled pretty high. This replacement motor would immediately be put to the test.
It has been 5 days of non-stop drying and no squeeks, no squeels and nothing but dry clothes!
Thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It made a potentially very bad experience turn out as good as I could have ever hoped.
First I removed the back cover (several screws). Then, I disconected wires from the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse (both of these parts were included in the Thermal Cut-Off Kit). Then, I removed four screws that hold these two parts, replaced the parts, put the screws back, and attached the wires. Finally, I put back the cover.
Removed the back of the dryer taking off the screws. Found the disposable thermal fuse. Unplugged the 2 blue wires connected to it. Removed the screws holding the part in. Replaced the old part. Reattached the blue wires. Put the back on the dryer. And voila! That simple! I'm a 39 year old woman with absolutely no patience for tedious jobs, but this was so easy I felt good about doing it. And felt even better for saving lots of money by doing the repair myself.
I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.
Found a service manual on-line for the Whirlpool Duet Dryer. Did the troubleshooting for the problem stated. Found the heater element to be bad (open circuit across heater block). Ordered new element from PartSelect.com and installed. Dryer now works like a charm and I didn't have to call a repairman.
Removed the back of the dryer. Used a multimeter set to read Ohms to check each Thermal cut-off switch. Each one read with continuity and some resistance. The one that was bad read open. So i replaced this one and the other one that came in the kit since i already paid for both.Then i replaced the back ran the dryer and it worked great.
The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.
I first went to your site and studied the parts diagram to see where the element was located. I then unplugged the dryer and pulled from the wall. After that I popped open the front cover and accessed the bottom of the dryer where the element was located. I then removed two screws that held the element in place and removed the wires to the element. After a little tug the old element came out. I slid the new one in place and connected the wiring and screws and replaced the cover and pluged it in. Works good as new...
TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.
I took off the front panel via 2 screws on the inside of the dryer with the top panel in the maintenance position. Pulled out the tub(cut my hand pretty bad in the process but continued). Did some cleaning and I had to google how the belt tensioner goes into place. Rather difficult on your own i held the belt and placed the tub back into place while placing the belt around the tub putting it in the correct area. thats pretty much it and began reinstalling the parts i had removed.. easy fix now that i have done it once. This is all after my landlords said they werent replacing it and just to have this one hauled off, so all in all i have a 26 dollar dryer now:)