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Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code
Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
I took off the front panel via 2 screws on the inside of the dryer with the top panel in the maintenance position. Pulled out the tub(cut my hand pretty bad in the process but continued). Did some cleaning and I had to google how the belt tensioner goes into place. Rather difficult on your own i held the belt and placed the tub back into place while placing the belt around the tub putting it in the correct area. thats pretty much it and began reinstalling the parts i had removed.. easy fix now that i have done it once. This is all after my landlords said they werent replacing it and just to have this one hauled off, so all in all i have a 26 dollar dryer now:)
somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Dryer wouldn't heat
Following the very helpful instructions that I found at PartSelect.com I was able to open the dryer and access the heating element which I suspected was bad. I realized later that I didn't need to open up as much as I did but the job was easy. In the future I would only open the panel below the door to access the element.
Just to make sure that it wasn't a problem with a thermostat or thermal fuse I also checked continuity from the temperature selector knob on the control panel to the heating element. When I verified continuity (zero resistance) I knew that the element was bad. Once I removed it I could see that one of the coils was broken and I should have just checked that first and not bothered opening up the control panel at the top.
Still it was less than an hour of work total. I have some experience with DIY projects but have not worked on appliances before. Thanks for the great site with good instructions and lower costs than the local parts counter.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
It was easier to remove the blower manifold cover, (3 screws) to get at the heater element. Remove the heat shield, disconnect the two wires from the element. There is another screw on the side holding the element in the housing. Remove it and slide the element torward you. I used pliers as it was a snug fit. Replace. Good time to vacuum the whole area.
Needed to change rear exhaust to the side to fit dryer into my closet.
First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.
After unplugging the dryer, I removed the bottom panel in front. Remove the the filter inside the dryer and remove the filter housing below. There you can see the thermal fuse on the air duct, its white with two blue wires. You can check it with a ohmmeter after removing the wires. If its open its bad. Its held in place with two sheet metal screws. After replacing the thermal fuse the dryer worked fine. However I would suggest cleaning the air duct and the outside discharge opening. Hope this helps.
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.
I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back. Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch. removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine. Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
Initially, i watched the how to do it instruction in the fix website to determine the complexity of repairs. The instruction built up my confidence. I ordered and recieved the grill amd the two new sensors. I placed the two new sensors into the new grill sensor slots. Then removed the old grill by unscrewing three screws. Connected the two sensors positioned the grill and screwed in the three screws put the lent stray in the grill and closed the dyer door. I have been a happy camper ever since. I saved the $75 home insurance fee plus maintenence installment. Thanks
With the correct parts and watching the video, it was so easy to repair. We ordered the wrong part (for the Electric Dryer when it should have been for the Residential Dryer) but the return was easy and we got the new parts super fast. Next time I would probably look at the offending part first before ordering just to make certain. But we used a socket set and Philips screwdriver and actually had our teens do all the work for experience. Fixed the loud noise one and for all.