I unplugged the machine and removed the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I unplugged each thermostat in turn and pulled them out. The internal bias was a bit tricky to remove without breaking the tabs or wires. I then placed each thermostat back in and replaced all the wires. Not bad at all. Weird thing is the dryer heats just fine now, until I put the back panel on; once I replace the back panel, it will not heat.
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
The dryer was igniting when initially starting load, but didn't light again the rest of the cycle. On my model the access was through the front panel, didn't even have to pull dryer out. Open the door and there are two screws on each side.of the inside of frame. Remove screws and lift door off the the whole front of the pulls out and down and removes, and everything is right there to work on. Replaced thermostat, that took 5 min. But didn't fix the problem. So I purchased and replaced the "M" Series New Style Coil Kit, took about 10 min. I took olm/continuity readings b/t all terminals of the old and new coils and they were only about 5% difference, the old being a little lower. But that fixed the problem, works like new again.
Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.
The dryer was only blowing high heat, no matter what temperature selection I chose. I removed the back panel, matched up the parts, and replaced them. I did all of this in about 15 min, with a 1/4" nut driver. Piece of cake. I'm not sure which piece fixed my problem, but for $25 changing them both was worth it to me. While your back there I recommend cleaning out, or checking the dryer vent, just to be safe.
After watching the U Tube video to replace flywheel, I had a appliance repairman come to my home to install flywheel. There was no way I would have been able to put the dryer back together without some help. I want to say "Thank You" to the sales representative who assisted me when purchasing my items, she was very patient while running around the house looking for the model number of the dryer.
Fan blade had to be removed , was broken off from motor.
Had to completely dismantle the dryer including the motor and grind off the.bolt holding the fan blade on. I did not realize it was threaded on with a left hand thread.Then reassembled.
Based on your web site I assumed the problem with the dryer not heating was either the Thermostat or the fuse. Since I could not locate my multimeter I ordered those parts. Prior to receiving the parts I located my multimeter and discovered both part were good. After further investigation I learned the timer motor (seldom at fault) might be faulty. I tested the timer moter and found an open circuit. Local appliance store had one. I installed the new timer motor and I now have a working dryer. Thank you for your informative web site
uplug dryer take off back panel replace thermostat. easy , but did not fix the problem call local appliance store Lew Whites ( got them on speed dial) Pat sold me a new dryer. used the money I was saving to replace bad pitman arm on my truck. wife likes new dryer.
Our dryer suddenly stopped heating up, and subsequently would not dry any clothes! The timer would run down to 0, but the dryer would continue to tumble until we manually stopped it. After finding the partselect.com site and checking the 'Parts that Fix' page for our dryer model, I followed the excellent video walkthrough, removed and tested the Thermal Fuse which, sure enough, was bad. I ordered a new fuse and it was delivered two days later (standard shipping). Placing the new Thermal Fuse was simple and I had the dryer running again very quickly, and while it would now stop at the end of the cycle, it was not fully heating up and drying still. I ordered the Cycling Thermostat (next most likely cause, according to the site) and again two days later had it in hand, replaced, and the dryer works perfectly! In the end, our problem was both a bad Thermal Fuse and faulty Cycling Thermostat. The PartSelect site was a perfect tool to not only find the part, but recommend which was most likely to solve the problem, show diagrams of the part locations, and give an excellent video walkthrough of replacing the parts. I highly recommend this site!
The video was the key. I don't know if it is your site, but some site had step by step video instructions making a relatively easy job out of a complicated one.
Disconnected the power ,removed back.Removed the upper thermostat in the heat chamber and replaced. This is the last item to replace as per your recommended list on the trouble shooting page..Very happy to say that the dryer is heating again.See my previous posts,for the parts that I heve replaced.Thanks.
