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Door would not close, piece on the bottom of the hinge that pulled door in was broken.
Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.
Remove top (held on with 3 screws on the back). Pressure switch is at the back right side. Remove rubber hose. Gently pry switch from side of machine. Remove electrical connection. Install electrical connection on new switch. Snap back into side of machine. Replace top. This was installed a couple of weeks ago and have not had either code since
Had to open the panels, remove the old drain pump and install the new one. Remember if there is water still in the hose to either take it out with a wet/dry vacuum or put towels under neither to sook the water. 15 minutes of work and your done.
Opened lower front panel to access the motor controller. Took a picture of the wiring attached to the front of the controller. Removed two wiring harnesses and one wire with a retainer clip. Removed the faulty controller. Inserted the new controller, replaced the wiring, using the picture to insure correct positioning (although that really wasn't necessary because the wiring clips could probably only be put in the correct places). Replaced the front cover, plugged in the washer and fired it up.
Error Messages: "SUD" and "F35" Aborted Wash Cycles
Confirmed the issue was not a blocked trap at teh base of teh machine. Renoved the top of the machoine (Three 7mm hex-head sheet-metal screws). Removed the small hose (rubber tube) from the Water Level Pressure Switch. Confirmed the hose was not blocked or constricted. Removed the failed Water Level Pressure Switch by pinching the spring-retainer with needle-nose pliers. Mounted the replacement WLPS. Connected hose. Tested the machine. PartSelect online catalog and delivery service was painless, quick, correct, only a little over-priced and easy.
It took me a minute to put the baffle in place. The piece got here in one day. I would order again from here if I ever need any parts for any of my appliances. Thanks Anne B.
Unplug washer. Open door. Look at the very bottom of the bellow and will see a spring that is connected to a small wire that runs around the bellow holding the outside on. Using a flat head screw driver insert it between the wire and bellow, pull down slighty. Grab the wire and gentley pull off. Now the outer part of the bellow will be free, pull it toward you, and off the water/soap despinser, then push it into the washer. Now look to the right side and you will see a screw head that is actully a big clamp ring around the bellow. This is the hardest part. Use a small rachet screw driver with a 7mm socket to lossen. Pull clamp off gently, you can now removwe the bellow. Put bellow back on in reverse. There will be a small tab on the bellow it goes to the top. Took about 2 hours.
Squealing towards end of cycle during high speed spin
Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.
Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.
Bellow had a large hole in it, and was letting water drain out all over the floor.
It was a little difficult to put the new Bellow in place on the tub, due to the fact you have to basically push the outside of the Bellow all the way into the tub so you can install the tub clamp. The other difficult part of the task was tightening up the clamp it's self. There really isn't a lot of room to move your hand around in the space you are given to work. But after a few hand cramps and a few things said, that are not needing repeated, I was able to get the clamp tight. Once you have the clamp on the tub, it's basically pretty simple to slide everything else into place. The wire/spring clamp that is used to attach the Bellow to the front of the washer is fairly simple to put into place with a little patience. All in all it was a cheep and easy repair for a due-it-your self repair.
I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.
unscrew the top 3 screws that hold the top lid on. Locate the pressure switch on the back right side, near the top. Pop off the pin plug (wire pack)and pull off the black hose. Put the pin plug into the new switch then put the black hose on. I did notice that the new pressure switch was a little bigger than the old one. It did not want to pop into the retainer clip location so I just let it dangle. Its not a problem. Washer works like new.
