With full load, clothes were not agitating correctly - very little action or movement of the upper agitator section.
Took off softener dispenser, pried off top of agitator, removed bolt from top of agitator.
Then pulled out the agitator assembly for easier access.
Used screwdriver to brake small plastic keepers holding secondary agitator ratchet clutch to the secondary agitator.
Assembled and inserted new ratchet mechanism in the top of the agitator, making sure 4 small square pegs protruding from the end of the new assembly fully entered into mating holes on the secondary agitator.
Placed the agitator back on the agitator post and installed and secured bolt. Replaced cap and installed softener dispenser.
Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.
So i replaced the above parts pulled gearbox put new oil in all looked good but when i tryed it filled started spinning for a few sec.then quit again?was makeing a clicking sound so i layed on the floor and the drive coupling was spinning so i took the water pump off and it started agitating and spinning. found about a 6 in.thin piece of wire in it, dont know where it came from but installed a new pump and it works like a new one !!!
While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.
Broken water inlet syphon combined with missing feet was causing water to spill out of the washer
I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism. Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires. The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.
The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.
I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.
I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!
I had to unscrew 2 screws that held the control panel, then remove the 2 end caps, remove 2 screws that held the control panel to the washing machine. I then lifted the control panel and leaned the lower case forward. All this to get access to the ground screw for the lid mount. It sounds like a lot, but actually it was quite simple. I replaced the old switch with a new one and put everything back together just like new. No extra screws or parts that I could not remember where they came from. Thanks Parts Select. Reading the comments from others helped me to realize that I could do the work without worry. The only problem I had was ordering the correct part. That did not happen until I got the correct part number from the old part.
Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.