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refrigerator door was making a popping noise when opening and closing
Not being a handyman I found this job realtively easy.I took most of stuff off fridge door, to make door easier to handle. I then undid top hinge door screws, 3 of them, lifted door out., replaced 2 cams.When putting door back on fridge, you have to make sure door is in exact position and top hinge is lined up exactly, or door will continue to pop a little.It took me a couple of times to get top hinge lined up exactly.
At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.
Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.
The in-door water dispenser stopped working but the ice continued to work.
I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!
The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.
Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.
Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.
Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.
I removed the two screws that were readily in view. I then figured out the there was a faceplate which I was able to pry off after removing the temp control knobs. The temp control unit was easily accessible and was held by two screws which I removed with the nut driver. The only difficult part was replacing the plastic tubing which covered the sending unit.
1. Removed the cardboard cover. 2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor. 3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket. 4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor. 5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor. 6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor. 7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided. 8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block. 9. remounted the terminal block. 10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation. I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill. Done Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.
I wasn't sure the kit included the part I needed from the pictures, but it did. The part slipped over the flat plastic bracket attached to the right freezer wall and the shelf fit over it. No tools required.
The refrigerator leaked water every time the ice maker filled.
The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!
