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botrailer with frig without a icemaker
got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks
The repair story webpage has some problems. I want to rate it "very helpful" but it showed "not helpful". I am pleased with the order service. It was very hard to find the parts on the web. There are a couple of web sites but only partselect has it in inventory. I ordered it, and it came in within 5 days. Excellent service. Will continue to order parts from this site in the future.
The old motor has built in wire harness. The new motor has connectors on it.
Remove and clean out everything from the freezer and unplug the refrigerator. Take out the wire shelf in the freezer. (The fan motor is behind the back wall of the freezer, SO YOU CAN KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR CLOSED). Pop off the little cover on the center of the plastic shroud. Remove the little screw and carefully remove the plastic shroud. Remove the plastic cover for the optional ice maker on the upper left corner of the back wall. Take out the two screws in the upper corners on the back wall of the freezer and the last two screws holding the fan motor. The fan motor won't drop, remove the back wall and you will see two screws holding the motor mount. Remover those two screws, and pop the bracket out and separate.Take the two rubber motor mounts off the ends of the old motor and install them on the new motor. (Now you will have to cut the wires off the old motor), unplug the little wire harness, strip the ends and crimp on wire connectors to plug them onto your new motor. Its an AC motor so it shouldn't matter which hot goes on which of the two terminals. JUST MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS CORRECT! (After reinstalling the motor, plug in the refrigerator, turn it on before installing the shroud and make sure the fan is blowing outward. If all is correct, turn the refrigerator off, unplug and finish assembling the freezer. I found the new motor seems to run more efficiently than the old one.
The majority of the repair time was spent moving the items in the refrigerator off the glass top under which the track was to be placed. After that, the track was a cinch to put in its place (it's pretty idiot-proof). Perhaps the track wouldn't need replacement if it were made of something stronger than plastic, but I felt pretty handy doing this for my wife, and she's glad to have the hydrator drawers back in proper operation.
inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out. then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.
Ice maker motor excessive slip (essentially worn out) & contacts were worn
1 removed bottom off old ice maker (3 hex screws) and ice drop shield (white plastic ice flips over into ice holder, old unit had different drop angle, see how described below, but I just musled it off the old unit) 2 removed "ice sensing bar off new ice maker and rotated mechanical sensor to on (leatherman tiny flat head) 3 removed end cap from new ice maker, then loosened to large screws (Phillips, leatherman) for motor unit cover. This allowed removal of ice drop shield on new unit (two tabs, one at each end). 4 removed ice drop shield and installed old ice dropshield on new unit 5 tightened two endcap screws (Phillips/leatherman) and reinstalled end cap 6 installed old bottom unit/tray on new ice maker (3 screws) 7 ensured wiring matched and routed plug properly 8 installed unit slides in 9 plugged unit to existing plug 10 installed old wiring shield (1 hex screw). Waited two hours to verify water valve worked properly, although IR codes did indicate "okay". Machine has been making ice and IR sensor shuts it off properly. So far a success. I have many spare parts if I need to do further repairs including a new water solenoid. Only saying it was a bit difficult because of the parts exchange, in actuality for me it was really easy.
a rumbling noise was comming from the back of the fridge
I unplugged the appliance removed the back cover exposing the fan motor.Unplugged the wiring harness from the motor assembly.unbolted the fan motor mounting bracket,and removed. Next I unbolted the fan and motor assembly from the mounting bracket.( I pulled the whole bracket out so it would be easier to reinstall the motor and fan assembly,then reinstalled the bracket with the motor and fan already installed) I installed the bracket assembly with the motor and fan back to its location,plugged the wiring harnessback to the motor. replaced the bask pannel ,and plugged the 110 back in the wall socket
Light switch wasn't working.. As I would close the door I would notice our frig light wasn't going off...
I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!
Removed the cardboard baking on back. Unplugged the fan. Used 1/4 socket and removed the 3 nuts. Removed the fan. It is tight quarters. Take your time and the job will go fast.
I have a grandson that works for Pantex. He replaced the fan and motor in less than ten minutes using only the nutdriver tool. My cost compared to local supplier and labor was about 75% less.