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Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Unscrew broken piece, pull it out and then insert new one, security it in place and connect water line again, make sure It's thight check for leaks and done
I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.
Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.
Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place
This Was A Side-By-Side Unit. The Symptom Was: Ice In Bottom Of Freezer; Vent Tube To Evaporator Tray Blocked By Ice; Dispenser Ice Melting Together; Ice Cream Much Too Cold; And Defrost And Freezing Cycle Too Long.
All food and drawers were removed from the freezer, including ice tray. The left side shelf brackets were removed to ease removal of the back panels which expose the the bi-metal defrost thermostat. Six screws to remove the large back panel, plus the shelf support rails needed to be loosened to remove the smaller upper panel. The bi-metal thermostat is mechanically clipped to the upmost coil of the condenser. The two wires must be cut and wires for the new thermostat spliced in. The wires were tinned with solder to insure a good connection, then twisted and crimped with an automotive end connector. With the smaller 22. 8 Cu. Ft. Refrigerator a lot of the work will have to be performed with one hand. The hardest problem here is diagnosing the malfunction correctly in the beginning. I was impressed that the replacement part was received in two days . . .
Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.
After finding water on the floor I investigated to find the leak. I Found theat the Icemaker fill tube on the back of the frig was cracked(due to someone pushing the frig back against the wall). Turned off the water supply to the icemaker. Removed the 2 screws holding the tube in place. Slid the tube out and slid the new one in. Replaced the screws and turned the water back on. Very easy, very inexpensive.
removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.