Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Ice maker stopped producing ice
Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.
Taped plastic cover to get it out of the way with duct tape - removed three screws on each side - removed retaining screw for each module - carefully disengaged module using small flat head screw driver being sure to release the plastic retainer and then reverse the process. Be sure new modules snap into place.
Biggest problem was initially figuring out what the problem was. Turning off the ice maker had no effect and it just kept making ice.
Well I changed out the optical boards which I thought were the problem and the ice maker is still not making any ice. I can see the ice makers fingers rotating but there is no water entering through the tube. I jumped the water manifold in the back and water comes out but I cant figure out what is not telling it to run water and fill the ice tray. Any ideas would be appreciated I guess i'll replace the ice maker next. Thanks in advance.
I replaced the Crisper Pan with no problem. The snack Crisper Drawer doesn't come with the white trim, so you have to take it off the broken drawer and put it on the new one. I think removing the trim & putting it on the new drawer was the most difficult part since it is such a snug fit! Still, it only too a couple of minutes. Now I am wondering why I waited so long to order new drawers!! Thanks Parts Select!
Cracked Evaporation tray was leaking water on kitchen floor
I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.
I took a 1/4 nut driver and removed the wire cover. I then used a small screwdriver to push up the clips the lock the unit in place. I then unplugged the unit and removed. I then used the same nut driver and removed the bottom plastic cover and installed it on the new icemaker. I then put the new unit part way back onto it slides, being carful to make sure the water fill spout clears the unit. Next I plugged in the wire harness and then slid the unit the rest of the way in until it locked in place. I then reinstalled the wire cover. This unit was delivered at 1:30 and it was installed by 2
Removal of the old assembly went quickly once I understood about the "push and release" tubing connectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release". So to install the new valves, I simply by passed the old inlet assembly and used the extra push splicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to the filter. All the other connections were easy push ins. Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!
Water dispenser did not work - control switch mount was broken
I replaced the control bracket, which has mounts for the switches used to activate the ice and water dispensers. The water switch mount was broken, so the switch would not activate. It was great that I could find this part (the control bracket) on PartSelect's site.
If the person doing the repair has a little patience, then he/she will be rewarded!:
The first step is to pry off the front panel: I pried off the panel at the bottom. It will pop off, but takes a little effort. I used a couple of screwdrivers to pull it up at a couple of spots at the same time. Once the bottom pops out, then I pulled straight up on the panel. (If you try to pop out the panel at the top, you will damage it, so make sure to pop it out at the bottom.)
Next, disconnect the wiring that goes to the panel, and put the panel aside.
I then took a digital picture of the arrangement of wires and switches on the control bracket.
I disconnected any wires going from the inner part of the refrigerator to the control bracket, and then unscrewed the control bracket.
After removing the old control bracket, I carefully noted how the two switches (one for ice, one for water) mount into it. I removed these switches and put them into the new control bracket.
I then remounted the control bracket into the refrigerator, screwing it into place. I used the digital picture that I had taken earlier to make sure that I knew how to reconnect all of the wires.
I plugged the the remaining wires to the front panel, and then snapped the front panel back into place on the refrigerator door.
Remove the cover plate from the bottom. Use care and patience when performing this step. It takes longer to remove the cover plate than replacing all of the parts involved. Slide off each switch, unplug electrical connectors and trust me when I tell you that you can figure out the rest. E Z, E Z, E Z!!!!!
I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100. Thanks
Ice maker auger motor runs but wouldn't dispense ice
My Kitchenaid side by side freezer has an ice dispenser on the door that would not dispense ice. The electronic door opened and the motor would come on with a repeated clicking noise. The Auger would turn with a few ice cubes in the bin, but not under load. After ruling out a clogged chute, I figured that the motor was stripped. The rod that turns the auger is a hexagon shaped piece, much like a screw driver you would use with your drill. After years of breaking down ice, it stripped the hexagon key in the motor, and would just spin under load. Now, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS PART. I looked online for a repair and saw a very similar motor repair that involved taking off the front panel and electronics. I did this, and ran into a solid piece of plastic with no way to get to the motor. I then looked at the inside of the freezer door more carefully. About 2/3 down I saw a small panel held in place by four 1/4 inch hex nuts. What was a 15 minute job, cost me over an hour removing and replacing the front of the freezer. Anyway, the replacement motor fixed the problem without a hitch, and now we have ice. Of note, this is the second repair of this ice maker system, after first having to replace the ice maker itself. And, this the second Kitchenaid built in refrigerator of this model as our first had ice maker issues and was returned as a recall. It is only 5 years old.