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Fridge and freezer quit working
This is a side by side fridge. Both refrigerator and freezer quit working. I could here the combination start device click and try to start the compressor. It would shut back off within 5 seconds.Removed the lower rear cover on the fridge and cleaned the coils while it was off. Replaced the combination start device, plugged in the fridge, and it worked. What a relief!
ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,
Old motor was not resetting back to proper position halting ice production.
Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!
First of all, you must remove two screws in the fridge compartment, and then remove the back panel in the freezer compartment which snaps off easily.
Then, you must push the four clips on the back of the diffuser together from the freezer side so that it slips out the fridge side.
Make sure to remember the parts as they come out, and re-connect them as needed to complete the repair.
This repair did not fix my fridge and so I'm drinking bourbon and trying to figure out how to fix this giant Kitchenaid piece of crap that freezes my beer.
MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF or REFRIGERATOR UNPLUGGED BEFORE STARTING THIS!!! I removed the lower refrigerator backing. The compressor was located in the left corner of the refrigerator. I located the start device which had a thin clip on top of it. After removing the clip I pulled the 2 wires (Red and White) from the start device. I then pulled the whole device from the compressor. You can use a screwdriver to pry it from the compressor. I unplugged the capacitor from the old switch and plugged it into the new one. Installed in reverse from how I took it out.
Ice Maker quit working. Seemed like a water supply issue but when I read the other reviews, I decided to install and see. bolted the bracket on with three screws, slid in place. Nothing happened and about 10 minutes later, I heard the water release to the ise maker and have been making ice ever since.
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
Constant 20 below zero in freezer (side by side ref/freezer) Ref 37 deg. OK. Defrost frozen up with ice.
I watched several video's on youtube that showed me how to replace the parts. Just Google "how to fix my freezer". I figured the only problem was the freezer Thermistor so I only replaced it. The refrigerator has one to. Instantly the freezer went back to Zero degrees and the defroster works fine after melting all the ice in the bottom. Make sure the drain hole is cleared. I ordered the bi-metal thermostat just in case but I don't need it. Be sure and position the thermistor down in the freezer rail on the right side just to where you can see it in the first opening and pull it back up out of sight and tape it to the wall where it comes through from the air baffle. It's important that it's 7.8 " down from the top of the freezer. Happy now, Freezer 0, refrigerator 37. This thing use to run all the time, I'm saying electricity now.
This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!
Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.
No cooling, clicking noises like it trys to start!
The star device that i recived was a little different, wasn't black like the original a recived a grey one and little bit smaller than the original but it fit perfect, and my frige is working good since i replaced.
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
Removed 3 screws on the bottom of old ice maker in the fridge, slid out old ice maker, disconnected electrical cable,took out old ice maker. Take the plastic tray from bottom of old ice maker install on new ice maker, reconnect cable, slid in place, replace the three screws. About 3 hours later water ran in and new ice maker started to make ice. The only thing I missed was I didn't rinse out new ice maker before installation. If you don't rinse out new ice maker you have to throw away the first full bin of ice due to metallic taste.