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Rocker on switch broke off
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.
Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up. Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.
The best part of the repair was how easy it was to find and order the part. Instead of searching the parts houses around town I just went to the PartSelect web site, quickly found and ordered the part in about five minutes, received the part the next day at my home and was ready to make the repair. Wow! What a pleasure for something to work the way it was meant to. Removed old switch located by prying out with sharp knife or screwdriver. Don't worry about breaking it or cracking plastic. Disconnect(unplug) wires from back of switch. Replace (plug-in) wires on back of new switch. Insert in location of old switch. Finisheed.
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.
This Was A Side-By-Side Unit. The Symptom Was: Ice In Bottom Of Freezer; Vent Tube To Evaporator Tray Blocked By Ice; Dispenser Ice Melting Together; Ice Cream Much Too Cold; And Defrost And Freezing Cycle Too Long.
All food and drawers were removed from the freezer, including ice tray. The left side shelf brackets were removed to ease removal of the back panels which expose the the bi-metal defrost thermostat. Six screws to remove the large back panel, plus the shelf support rails needed to be loosened to remove the smaller upper panel. The bi-metal thermostat is mechanically clipped to the upmost coil of the condenser. The two wires must be cut and wires for the new thermostat spliced in. The wires were tinned with solder to insure a good connection, then twisted and crimped with an automotive end connector. With the smaller 22. 8 Cu. Ft. Refrigerator a lot of the work will have to be performed with one hand. The hardest problem here is diagnosing the malfunction correctly in the beginning. I was impressed that the replacement part was received in two days . . .
Internal light did not come on each time the door was opened.
After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.
A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.
