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Refrigerator runs warm/ freezer running cold.
I spent several hours defrosting the unit. Making sure the vents were all defrosted and free of ice. The part replacement is fairly straight forward; remove the thermostat, cut two wires, reconnect the wires following color codes, attach to coil and restart. And, "Yippie!". Nothing. Zilch. Zero. Because I could not connect with the online repairman, I spent 40 bucks for nothing; problem was not resolved. Thanks for taking my money. I'm bummed and with just a little less money in my pocket. Never again will I ever purchase another Whirlpool product. Or buy from your outfit again (because of the over priced part). I replaced a 25 year old 'working' General Electric fridge for this junk that sat in the warehouse for four years before this was delivered to me in 2018 and sold to me as a "new" appliance. This was found out only when it crapped out and I needed to have it checked out for repair. Oh yea, I only had the comment section and the part recommendation to go by, and the latest comments are at least two years old. I'll be surprised if this even gets posted.
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
1) Turn off the power to the refrigerator 2) Remove the top shelf and ice maker door 3)Remove three hex screws holding the ice maker in place, 4) Unplug the electrical cables and remove the ice maker 5) Remove the plastic cover to the motor module 6) Remove three screws from the motor module and seperate from the housing 7) Remove two mounting screws for the motor module 8) Seperate the motor module from the ice tray 9) Remove and replace the plastic ice stripper and rake10) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be patient after re-installing the ice maker. It might take an hour or two before its cold enough to kick back on and make ice.
Removed 4 bottom screws. Removed module screws. Replaced module and motor with new parts (came assembled). Replaced module screws and installed the ice maker with the 4 bottom screws.
Tough part was diagnosing the problem: bad water inlet solenoid, frozen inlet line, bad ice maker motor, or door opening sensor? Went to a parts shop & discussed the problem with the serviceman. He said you just need to sequentially replace each part. No way say I, that could cost $300 with a no-part return option.
I decided to replace the motor...Eureka!! It worked. The underside of the ice maker cartridge has a plastic snap clip on either side of the cartridge. You need push each up, pull the left side of the cartridge out part way & disconnect the electrical connector on the right side(left..you facing the refrig.) With the cartridge out simply remove the 5 screws from the motor plate of the left side & replace with the new one. Very simple. Slide the cartridge back in the frig. until the 2 snap clips click. Voila...you done! Cost $86..not $300. Apparently the motor is too weak to do the job & burns out quickly. Manufacturer should correct this defect.
i first removed the ice maker and took the motor assembley off. Right away i saw the problem. The wheel which drives the arm broke. Once i get the new motor modl i just replaced it (it just pops into place with 1 or 2 screws). put ice maker back in freezer and wola. Starting cranking out ice within 15 minutes.
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
Internal light did not come on each time the door was opened.
After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.