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Getting Ice Maker to sit in place prior to tightening screws.
Don not completely remove holding icemaker screws. Unit slips over screws and drops down into place and the use nutdriver to tighten in place. Rest of unit was sound and wasn’t replaced. After icemaker is installed wait for a while and unit self activated and creates ice cubes.
Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.
Water tubing was accidentally broken from the back of the freezer.
Removed the two screws holding the funnel in place...removed the old one and replaced it witht he new tubing...screwed screws back in and the jov was complete. It actually took longer to get it out of the sack than it did to put it together
Had to remove both doors freezer and fresh section. Once I had door off removed the screws, and old gasket, cleaned all aroud where old gasket was, and proceeded to put new gasket on, It was hard lining up gasket with metal rods that hold gasket on could only do one screw at a time, because gasket kept slipping out, it was very time consuming.
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing