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Oven quit heating up
There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.
I removed the oven racks and the bottom cover. The bottom cover had 2 hand tight screws. Then I had to remove the silver sheet metal plate attached with 1 screw. Then I removed the 2 small screws that held the old Igniter in place. Then removed the 2 wire nuts connected to the oven wires. The new igniter fit in the same place as the old and I attached it using the same old screws. Then I connected the wires using the new wire nuts provided in the igniter kit. After testing the new igniter by turning the oven on to 200F, i replaced all the parts i removed including the silver plate the oven bottom and the racks.
I removed the bottom drawer from the oven, took my handy nut driver out and removed two screws from the round igniter. When it was loose from the oven I removed the two wire nuts conecting it to the power sourse, I reversed the process and it was working again. One thing did go wrong my wife made me clean the oven that wasn't part of my plan :)
It was a few days before Thanksgiving and our oven went out. We had out of town guests coming for a week stay with us. I fortunately found the instruction manual and hopefully thought it was the igniter. I called Parts Select and unbelievably I received it the next day. I checked with the helpfull hints to installing it. It was easy and quick. The only problem I had was laying on the floor to long, I had trouble getting up. I'm 70 years old. Thank you Parts select for having the part and your incredible delivery.
The repair did not go well for the oven igniter. After I unfastened the defective igniter from the mount I tried to gently pull the ceramic wire connectors through the opening in the back of the oven. I pulled too hard and the wire connectors became disconnected and only the wires from the ingiter came through the opening. Now the wiring is trapped on the other side of the oven wall and I can't pull the wire through the opening (the oven is a wall unit). The wiring is actually also threaded through a second wall at the back of the oven and the wiring is trapped behind the second wall. I would need a long skinny hook to try to pry the wire from behind the second wall. I may need to call a professional after all. Jiggling the wires a bit in addition to gentle pulling may have worked, I don't know.
Replaced the old igniter with new one in 15 minutes. Popped the door off, took the bottom plate off, unscrewed the igniter and disconnected wires. Put the new igniter in and reversed the steps.....piece o'cake! Works great now!
Using descriptions provided by others at this site, I replaced the old igniter with the new one very easily. Since this was the second time this oven has needed a new igniter, I did not need to cut the wires as described. Instead, I just disconnected the old igniter wires and rewired the new igniter wires. Replaced all the items I'd removed and the oven functions just fine.
Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.
Sunday night 4 days before thanksgiving oven wont light
Part arrived day before thanksgiving bent old igniter back and forth till broke off then easily took out screws.Cut and strip old wire, screw on new ignighter this was tough to get a wrench on with the positioning but after connecting those wires and slappin the rest of the oven back together one turn of the temp knob told me thanksgiving was going to happen Thanks to part select I was lookin like a hero!
removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?
Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!
I removed the bottom drawer, disconnected the wires and then using the socket driver removed the screws holding the burner in place from below. I then unscrewed the bottom plate of the oven from the top so I could get to the burner. I unscrewed the one screw still holding the burner in place. Disconnected the old igniter and then cut the cables at an appropriate length so I could re-use the connectors on new igniter. Spliced together using wire nuts provided, mounted new igniter to burner, put it all back together and it fired up like it was new.
I removed the oven grates and removed 2 screws that held the bottom pan in the oven to get easy access to the burner and igniter. Remove 2 screws that held the burner in place. Removed wire nuts. Removing burner allowed easy access to fasteners holding ignitre in place. Confirmed that the igniter was bad by checking the continuity. Ordered part later in the evening from parts select. Part was here 2nd morning after I ordered it. Installed, and checked to make sure igniter wasworking properely. When check confirmed igniter was working, replace oven components. Saved myself $100 or more by doing it myself rather than having a repairman out.