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Seal and Bearing W11035878
Rated by 15 customers
Easy
1- 2 hours
Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.
Get this part fast! Average delivery time for in-stock parts via standard shipping: 1.8 days.
Seal and Bearing Specifications
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Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Seal and Bearing
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Ed from SEBEKA, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the belt and the drum.
Saw what I needed to replace. Ordered the parts then put back together. It was a really easy job.
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Nathan from ALTOONA, PA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Gary from MOUNDSVILLE, WV
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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ludwig from EDISON, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Derek from Wyoming, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Walter from Memphis, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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John from Semmes, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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carl from westbrook, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.
I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.
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Stephen from Springfield, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the fron ... Read more t panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
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Neil from Southgate, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Manufacturer Part Number: W11035878
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