This is a temperature sensing mechanism. It can sense the rise in evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and cycles the defrost heater off after all frost is melted from the coils.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Frost buildup
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag.
Part# WPW10165425 replaces these:
AP6016065, 126393249SP, 12639324SP, W10165425
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Bruce P - September 4, 2022
Verified Purchase
Worked as expected
The part was what I expected and it arrived quickly. the freezer is back in working order
★★★★★
★★★★★
Kenneth R - October 16, 2019
Verified Purchase
Repair was made easy by the instructional video viewed
Refrigerator been working like new since replacement.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.3 / 5.0, 1 reviews.
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Refrigerator section wasn't getting cold.
To keep from having to pay the appliance repairman $100.00 for a diagnostic fee I just started replacing parts that were known for causing this problem. First I replaced the compressor switch and capacitor that didn't work so then I replaced the damper controller then I replaced the control board then I saw that the evaporator fan wasn't
... Read morespinning so I replaced the evaporator fan motor and the bimetal defrost thermostat. That was the problem I wish I would have checked that first. But it works like new now.
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Edward from Muncie, IN
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 13 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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8 questions answered by our experts.
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KEN
January 8, 2019
My freezer will not defrost, from what i've read, i've narrowed it down to the circuit board or the defrost thermostat. What is diagnostic procedure on both before i spend $300?
For model number GB2FHDXWQ00
Hello Ken, thank you for your question. I would recommend testing the bimetal defrost as well as the defrost heater first. You will want to test the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater for continuity. If either does not have continuity then replace that part. If they both check good for continuity then replace the circuit board. To test the thermostat, set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat. Before you can test your defrost heater, you have to remove it from your refrigerator. A defrost heater is connected by two wires, and the wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly grasp these connectors and pull them off the terminals. You may need a pair of needle-nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
Use your multitester to test the heater for continuity. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place the tester's leads on one terminal each. This should produce a reading anywhere in between zero and infinity. If your multitester produces a reading of zero, or a reading of infinity, then your defrost heater should most definitely be replaced. There are many different kinds of elements, and so it is difficult to say what exactly the reading should be for your defrost heater. But it definitely should not be zero or infinity. If it is, replace the mechanism. I hope this helps!
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Robert Maynor
October 5, 2017
Not sure what part i may need. The freezer part of my fridge runs and cools properly but the fridge portion does not cool at all.
For model number GX5SHDXVB03
Hi Robert,
Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the electronic control board, the capacitor, the evaporator fan motor, the bimetal defrost thermostat, the damper control assembly and the condenser fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Paul
September 23, 2017
Ice maker must overflow and throws water and cubes in tray, but a lot of the water freezes up thick on back of freezer blocking slots its that bad i have to break the ice with a broom handle. Does make cubes
For model number GX5FHDXVB03
Hi Paul,
Thank you for your question. I think that you should first check your water inlet valve, see if it is sending too much water up to the ice maker. Thus over filling it and causing leaking that freezes and creates your ice build up. If that part is alright, I would suggest checking then your ice maker to see if it is working correctly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Matt
January 23, 2019
My freezer is warming up a few times to a day to as much as 22 degrees but then returns to zero. Seeing a little frost on items in freezer at times also. Any idea what the problem could be??
For model number KBFS25EVMS00
Hello Matt, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Bimetal Defrost Thermostat, PartSelect Number PS11749348.The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Dennis
December 7, 2021
Our fridge has freezer in bottom that is too cold and upper fridge too warm. Evaporator coils froze up at back of freezer. You don't have same model number no 0 but 1,2,3.for last number? Fridge has only the 2 doors. Do you think defrost timer or thermostat is faulty, and can you supply? I will check drain tube. Thanks for your attention
For model number MBR1953WES0
Hello Dennis, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. We hope this helps!
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Donna
March 16, 2023
Water up and through the damper into fridge. Fridge was forming ice. Checked freezer, completely heavily iced over. Shut it down. Cleaned out top-bottom, inside-out, all of it. Turned back on, damper seems to work. Freezer started to freeze immediately. Looked over you IPB here. Think heater, thermostat, or P drain. Please, thoughts before I start purchasing. Thank you.
For model number EB9SHKXVQ02
Hi Donna, thank you for reaching out. We have researched the model and would recommend checking the defrost thermostat, part number PS11749348. and the defrost heater, part number PS11738606. If these parts are working fine, we would suggest checking the electronic control board, part number PS11755733, for continuity using a multimeter. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week!
Unit is warm I replaced run cap relay circuit board thermistor cleaned coils all fans are running defrost coil is cold. Still not cooling. Please help thanks
For model number Jfc2070krs
Hello Jimmy, thank you for contacting us. Based on the understanding of the issue, you may need to replace the compressor kit, part number PS2580803, to fix the issue. We hope this information helps!
How should we proceed to change the Bimetal Defrost Thermostat? Thank you
For model number ABL1922FES5
Hello Conrad, Thank you for the question. Before starting the repair, you will need to unplug the appliance to cut power to the Fridge. To replace the Thermostat, you will need to remove the Freezer basket and the freezer door from the appliance. Once removed, you will then remove the icemaker from the side of the freezer. Next remove the screws securing the back wall to the appliance. In the center of the back wall there should be a vent. To remove the vent, there is a clip in the slot on the bottom that needs to be released to remove the cover, you can use a flat head screw driver. Once you remove the center cover, you will need to remove the cover on the right side and remove the thermistor from the cover. Once all of this is removed, you should be able to remove the back panel and access the bi-metal. Un clip the Thermostat and disconnect the wires and reverse the steps to install. We hope this helps!