Models > MGDB765FW0 > Symptoms > Not Heating

Parts That Fix Maytag Dryer MGDB765FW0 Not Heating

Not Heating is a commonly reported symptom for the MGDB765FW0 Maytag Dryer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your MGDB765FW0 Maytag Dryer that will fix Not Heating. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

Fixes Symptom 33% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
148 Reviews

Rated by 135 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil

$ 30.95
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer would only heat cycle once

I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.
  • Robert from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
81 of 90 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Dryer ran but would not heat

PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
  • Gary from Haverhill, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
391 of 441 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 29% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
33 Reviews

Rated by 27 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

If your dryer will not heat, takes too long to dry, or does not provide enough heat, you might want to replace your igniter kit. This silicone carbide igniter with ceramic holder kit includes the 3-inch flat igniter, bracket, 4-inch wire leads, and the plug. The kit can replace both round and flat igniters and is used for many gas clothes dryers. Be sure to disconnect the power source from your dryer before you do this repair. The igniter is located within the burner assembly, so you will require tools to complete the repair. You will need a putty knife, a small flat blade screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, and a 5/16 socket with a ratchet.

$ 40.62
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334180
Manufacturer Part Number 279311

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Igniter Kit

Replacing your Igniter Kit

Customer Repair Stories

no heat

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse
  • rex from streator, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
28 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

No heat to dry clothes

First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yrs old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.
  • Karen from Pine Mtn. Club,, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
62 of 72 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 23% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
30 Reviews

Rated by 30 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is located on the blower housing, next to the thermal fuse. If your thermistor is defective, drying time could be prolonged or you could get a fault code. You could also notice your dryer overheating. You can test the outlet thermistor on a multimeter, it should read 10Kohms (10,000 ohms) of resistance at room temperature. It can tolerate 10% fluctuation. If your reading indicates the part is defective, it will need to be replaced. This model is white plastic. It is sold individually.

$ 47.83
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746740
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577274

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Replacing your Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
  • Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
  • Jim from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 16% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
12 Reviews

Rated by 37 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.

$ 48.00
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741429
Manufacturer Part Number WP338906

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor

Replacing your Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer would not heat up.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++
  • Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Gas Flame Would Drop Out

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
  • FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
47 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!