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The rollers on the upper rack broke
There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the guides.
Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.
Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!
The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.
The stud assembly in the middle of each wheel no longer stayed inside the wheel.
Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.
1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides. 2. Removed the upper rack. 3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack. 4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack. 5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear. 6. Walked away
I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.
This was a fairly simple repair. After disconnecting power to the dishwasher and removing the panel below the door, first had to remove a retainer C clip from the gate valve shaft. Then disconnected the linkage from the gate valve solenoid, removed two return springs and slid the gate valve contol arm off the shaft. Then removed the solenoid bracket that was fastened to the housing by 2 screws. This allowed access to the push on nut on the valve shaft. Removed the old push on nut which exposed the leaking seal. Removed the bad seal, then moistened and carefully slid on and seated the new drain valve shaft seal. Affixed new push on nut. Reinstalled the above mentioned parts that were removed. Problem solved - no more leak. Total cost $18.81 for factory GE parts plus $6.95 shipping. Thank you PartSelect.
Found a forum on the internet that said the Air Check Valve located under the screen on the bottom of the back wall inside the wash compartment may be the culprit. Took it out by using nut driver to remove screen, and twisting the part out. The seal was deteriorated. Repleacing the part was simply the opposite, and very easy.
I also replaced the screen on the floor of the wash compartment because the rubber was deteriorating there too. Here I had to remove the spray arm by carefully prying the locking tabs outwards and lifting the entire spray assembly upwards. Then, then plastic covers need to be unscrewed and removed. The new part had the plastic cage molded into it. So I discarded the old plastic cage. There are a couple of retaining clips that are a little tricky to get off the plastic posts. But, they can be removed by prying a standard screw driver underneath and working them off the post. Do not break the plastic post, and save the retaining rings. The new part does not come with any screws or retainers, so you will need to re-use them. Simply, place the new screen in position, slide on the retaining clips, and screw down the cage. The spray assembly is just slid back onto the shaft and snaps into place. A lot of writing, but was rather simple to do. 15-20 minutes.
Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.
First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to catch. 1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)
Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever
2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another. 3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.
[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:
4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off. [*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen] 5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.
Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.
It is a simple process to replace the drain solenoid on these dishwashers, having replaced several in the past few months.
After removing the front bottom panels, I removed the 2 screws holding the old solenoid, unplugged the wire harness, and then switched over the springs to the new solenoid. Assembly was installing 2 screws, and plugging in the wire harness.
I work on a 260 + unit property, as well as working for a property management company who rents single family homes.
PartSelect.com is an excellent source of parts, shipping in a quick manner, allowing the repairs to be completed in a timely manner. Thank you.