This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, ...
This limit switch is located in the ice/water dispenser section. The switch pictured here is black, though this type of switch is also available in white.
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing
... Read morethe front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
First I unpluged the refrigerator, then I removed the drip shelf (slides out). Then removed the two screws hidden by the drip shelf. Then I removed the control panel by pulling out on the bottom then lifting slightly to to expose the ribbon cable. The circuit boards you see at this point will deliver an electrical shock if the refrigera
... Read moretor is plugged in. I disconnected the ribbon cable form the control (front) panel. Next I removed three screws that hold the chute assembly in place and worked the chute away from the door. Pay attention to the placement of the water line before you remove the chute. The bad flap fell out at this point but it is easy to fiqure out how to place the new one. When putting the chute back in place make sure the arm holding the flap is aligned in the groove of the solenoid plunger and not just setting on top. (I had to do this twice because the chute would not open the first time I put it back together). About a 30 min job because I took it apart the first time to see what was broken. I only needed the flap, the arm it mounts to an the solenoid were not broken. Easy to do and only cost about $16.00 with shipping for the part.