This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if i...
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The...
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which a...
The front lower drum seal is used in the assembly of dryers. This seal helps keep your appliance running quietly. It allows the drum to smoothly rotate on the front panel. If you notice brown marks on...
The door catch on your dryer is an important part as it keeps your dryer door closed, in order to ensure no air or clothes can escape. This part works by holding the door strike, which allows the door...
This kit contains two coils, one is a two-wire secondary coil and the other is a three-wire booster coil. Both coils in the ignition coil kit should be used together in the clothes dryer. Some of the ...
Located at the front of the dryer, this lint filter traps lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing out of the dryer drum. This part measures approximately 12 inches long x 7 inches high, has a pla...
The door strike is attached to the door of your dryer and holds the door closed. If your dryer door is not closing, this might be due to the door strike needing to be replaced. This is a simple repair...
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
$11.22
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Questions And Answers for FDG8977EW0
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I looked in my appliance paperwork, found the model number, keyed it in, located and ordered the knob. It arrived in a few days and voila, pushed new knob on and dryer is back in great working order. Thanks!
1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum be
... Read morelt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
I was getting brown spots on my clothing since I bought this used dryer. Went to partselect.com Fine with me, but not my wife and daughter! Anyway, after ruling out rust, I ended up here and found Randy's story - without it, I'd be lost! Basically, the felt seal crushes over time, and clothing gets caught in the gap stuck against this
... Read morenasty old brown felt and leaves a mark.
Replacing the belt was a very good idea, though as mentioned, the drum support bearing is just a "nice to do" - not necessary, but it gives you the excuse to re-grease it (I used a thick Molly impregnated grease from my motorcycle).
The only other advice I can give is that I used a chisel to scrape off the old felt - it came off in very little time, and I didn't end up needing to really do much cleaning of the drum afterwards. Just use a sharp one you're not afraid to dull - it'll be metal-on-metal contact.
Using the spring-loaded clamps that you can get from the hardware store was also a huge help - it just needs to keep the upper glide stuck to the drum for the 30 minutes for the glue to cure - I used 6, but 3 would work. The bottom seal doesn't need them as the felt will tend to stick to the drum when the glue is applied.
You might not NEED to replace the lower seal, but I'd suggest it. It's cheap enough, and this job is "not fun" enough that it only adds a few minutes total - good insurance that you do a complete job.
You also might want to get some aluminum foil tape and re-tape your blower extension tube - mine was ripped off from moving from house to house over the years.