This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or ...
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer s...
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you disc...
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes ...
The ice cube tray is made of plastic, is white in color, and is sold individually. This is a part for your freezer. The ice cube tray is sturdy but flexible to allow you to easily release the ice once...
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re
... Read moremoved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it r
... Read moreattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.
I'm too young to die so I unpluged the refriderator first. The cold control is mounted in a plastic housing at the top of the freezer compartment that is held in place by two screws on the back side. I removed them with a nutdriver. Pull off the knob and use a screwdriver to release the control from it's bracket and pull off the 3 wire
... Read mores noteing where they go. Slide the sensing element out and remove the plastic sleeve. Stragihten the sensing element on the new control and slide on the plastic sleve. Slide the sensing element in place, push the wires onto the terminals and snap the control into the bracket. Re-install the two screws and the control knob. Plug it in and you're done. It took longer to write this than to replace the control.