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This rear drum bearing kit includes a shaft, ground strap, bearing, seven screws, and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. This part helps keep yo...
The adjustable leveling screws on the bottom of your dryer can be screwed in or out to lower or raise the leg level. If one of the leveling screws is stripped, damaged, or missing, you may not be able...
With this high limit/safety thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 260 degrees Fahrenheit. This element is meant as a safety device, will kick back in w...
Replaces "T" and "V" style motors. Includes two motor pulleys. If you have an older model dryer, the pulley may be pressed on or held on with a set screw. If pulley is pressed on, a new motor pulley must be ordered.
This heating element coil restring kit is intended for use with many of GE's brands of electric clothes dryers. It carries 250 volts, and includes two coils.
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the in
... Read moreternal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
pried old switch assembly from front of machine with screw driver. removed 2 electrical connections. shorted terminals to verify problem. inserted wiring terminals to new switch. verified operation and then pushed switch assembly into machine opening.
Remove the two screws holding the top down. Disconnect two wires from door switch. Remove the two hex screws holding the front on. Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt. Remove the drum. Label the wi
... Read moreres then remove the heating element. Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing. Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element. Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours. I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum. Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole. Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram. Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down. Put belt on drum. Install drum and belt. Reverse disassembly. When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.