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With this high limit/safety thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 260 degrees Fahrenheit. This element is meant as a safety device, will kick back in w...
Replaces "T" and "V" style motors. Includes two motor pulleys. If you have an older model dryer, the pulley may be pressed on or held on with a set screw. If pulley is pressed on, a new motor pulley must be ordered.
It has a limit of 145 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 15 degrees. This means that with this thermostat, your dryer's heating element will cut out at 145 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in wh...
This thermostat has a limit of 135 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 15 degrees. This means that your dryer's heating element will cut out at 135 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the dr...
This heating element coil restring kit is intended for use with many of GE's brands of electric clothes dryers. It carries 250 volts, and includes two coils.
first had to troubleshoot... used multimeter to check all switches, they were good.
then checked thermostats, good again.
then checked motor centrifugal switch.. good.
with multimeter i found continuity between heating coil leads and heater housing. coil had broken and welded itself to housing.
... Read morechanged coil in short time with restring kit (which got here amazingly fast) and everything is great.
ps: PartsSelect got me the part super fast and it was what i needed. also at a great price. would order from them again.
added note: if i were to do this again i would order the porcelain insulators that insulate the leads to the coils, they were old and very fragile and i experienced some fragmentation.
pried old switch assembly from front of machine with screw driver. removed 2 electrical connections. shorted terminals to verify problem. inserted wiring terminals to new switch. verified operation and then pushed switch assembly into machine opening.
Pull the dryer away from the wall, UNPLUG, and remove vent hose. Insert thin metal sheet under the front corners of the lid, push in (hard) while lifting up the lid. The lid will pop up and hinge over and out of the way. Make a drawing of the wiring layout for the lamp and switch on the door, disconect the 3 wires, and remove the entire
... Read morefront panel (2 bolts inside at the top, then lift slightly and pull the panel away). From the back there is a panel for access to the motor/drive belt assy. Remove that panel, reach in, and release the spring loaded pressure on the drive belt. Disengage the Belt. Back at the front of the machine, working inside the drum remove the 3 allen head bolts at the center of the drum. Support the drum - it will drop a little. You can now lift the drum from the front and ease it out with the belt. There is a thermostat at 1 O'clock on the coil rim at the back (2 wires attached to it). To replace, disconnect the 2 wires. Remove the one or two screws, and pull out the thermostat. Install the new thermostat, attach the wires (either way), DONE. Other thermostat is at the bottom in the exhaust duct. Change it the same was as the other, reconnect wires. Remove the belt from the drum and and start working the drum back into the dryer. Loop the new belt over the drum, slide the drum all the way back. I slide 2 long screwdrivers through the screwholes in the drum, and looking down from the top align them with with the holes in the mounting plate. Slide the drum all the way in, reinstall the 3 allen head screws. Reinstall the front panel. Reattach and check all wiring (compare the front panel wiring to your drawing). Lower and snap in the lid. At the back of the unit reach back to the belt and reattach it to the spring assembly. Reinstall that panel, reconnect the exhause duct, slide the unit back and plug in.
Note that the heating problem was the thermostats, but I changed the belt since I was there anyway.
