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heating element burnt up
first I pulled the stove from the wall. Then unplugged the stove from the wall (electric stove) for safety. then I removed the middle back panel screws(2) and then the panel. I then pulled the wires off the heating element that was bad. I took the screws (2) off the heating element inside the oven. I had to use WD-40 to loosen the screws because with the heat they were really stuck. I removed the heating element and replaced it with the one I got through partselect.com. Put everything back and walla finished. Partselect.com sent me the right part at the right price and fast. No hassles at all.
mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
The burner would keep heating after turning off the switch
Start by turning off the power to the range. It was fairly easy to take the "Control Deck" off the top of the range by removing about 8 screws. I leaned the deck forward without removing any wires except a green ground that was held on by one of the screws. There are two small screws under the switch knob holding the Infinite Switch to the panel. I removed these and let the switch hang on the wires. To avoid missplacing or crossing the wires... I moved one wire at a time to the new switch, then attached the switch to the panel and put it all back together. Whole job was done in about 15 minutes
well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.
Went online and located the correct part, which I had shipped to me next day. The part arrived I removed the two screws which held the element in place, unclipped the two wire leads, then replaced old element with the new one, reattached wire clips then screwed new element in place. All done 10 min.
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Didnt keep Left/Right trim in their box - parts had no ID on them.
PS733869 Door Trim Kit - Since I was replacing broken and discarded trim parts and had taken the replacements out of their identifying boxes I had some unneccessary difficulty since the parts are not marked. Point to reference is that the 9/16 side of the trim goes on the OUTSIDE EDGE of the door and the glass and handle are attached AFTER the trim is installed. Glass goes OVER the trim and not held in by it, the handle and the lower bracket does that.
The broiler element started sparking and melting in one spot. I thought it would catch on fire and quickly turned off the oven.
First we unplugged the range. My husband removed the old element using a screw driver. He also removed the back panel on the oven after pulling it out from the wall. He unplugged the broiler prongs and plugged in the new element, put it all back together using the screw driver. We plugged it back in, turned on the oven and it is working great! Simple and easy to do in a short amount of time. Cool!!
Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
Both hinges were bent, probably from dropping the door, or leaning on it when it was in the down position.
1st; I opened the door, 2nd; removed the keepers that prevent the door from coming unhinged. 3rd; placed 2 short screws in the holes in the hinges. 4th; raised the door until it stopped. 5th; lifted the door upward and slid the hinges out of the slots in the range. 6th; laid the door face up on a microwave stand. With a handle on the outside, and hinges sticking out of the inside, it was inpossible to lay the door flat on a larger surface, and get around it. 7th; removed 2 screws from the inside top, and the 8 screws from the very bottom. 8th; removed the bottom rail, and the handle assembly. From there everything was stacked pieces. Picked the glass front up, and carefully set it safely aside. Picked each piece up and cleaned it, and started the re-assembly. The hardest part of the process was getting the fiberglass rope around the inside glass, to stay in place during the initial re-assembly. From there, the assembly was just the reverse order. the process was about 1 hour and 20 minutes, due to lack instructions and practice, plus cleaning, finding screws, and tools, Instructions may have been on line, but I didn't find them. The new hinges came with pins in place, and should have come with an extra set to lock the old hinges.
One of the heat elements in my oven would not heat
1. Disconnected power from my oven. 2. Removed several screws that held the control block 3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch 4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required) 5. Put control block back
Removed the screws that hold the handle to the oven door. In less than 5 min had the glass in place and you couldn't even tell that I had broken the glass door. super easy to change very helpful company to get stuff from.