Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit. My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts. The element is working great now. Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
My Jenn-Air is an "antique." The filter was disgusting!
I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!
Falling apart 20 year old grease filter for downdraft counter rangetop
Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.
First I cut off power supply, removed screws that held panel on, pulled the switch up and disconnected wires. Installed new switch, being sure to connect wires in the correct places. Refastened panel to stove top. Turned power back on and tested switch and it Worked.
The drip pans, burner knobs and electric surface elements are easily removed and replaced. The new receptacles for the burners were NOT easy to replace, but electricians were on hand to install when they replaced the cook top into the new counter top. Even the electricians had to read the instructions - and remove the control panel to replace one of the receptables. Looks like a new cook top.
Pulled the motor and blower wheel from below. Replaced both. I think it was easier to replace the two together than just the motor.I also had old light indicators so we replaced them since the stove was sort of apart. The repair was not difficult at all, and my 30+ stove top looks and runs great!
Purchased 1 infinite switch and installed it on the left front burner. problem still there so I used the switch that I replaced on the rear burner and all was ok. The front switch had been sending full heat to the rear burner,but the problem ended up with the rear switch. The switches are interconnected and all are the same part number.Diagrams on partsselect were the key to a successful repair.To access the switch you need only to remove the fan cover, remove the 2 screws holding the switch assembly and move it foreward and then lift to reveal slide on connectors. Power to the unit is off at the main panel during the entire process.
Fan switch burned out, Burner switch only worked on HIGH.
Well, since the circuit breaker blew when the fan switch burned out, I was hoping to get a new counter-top range out of this. But, no such luck. My son opened up the control module (2 screws under the fan grill) and found the problem. Then I decided that if I needed to replace ONE part, I'd replace ALL of the parts that didn't work and were worn out. First I turned off the breaker all the way, then, since the module was open anyway (it pulls out about 2 inches), I only had to remove the old fan switch using the socket set, and replace it, wire-for-wire with the new one. The flange needed to be filed down a bit because it was wider than the original, but not a problem to do. I had to use the original nuts to hold in the new one. The new ones are smaller. Just used the socket set in reverse ....done! The burner switch and knobs were a little more of a problem but only because ordering them didn't follow the rules...I needed series 3 parts, even though I had a "Run 01" range top. With the help of a very nice customer service rep, I got the correct parts the next day and replaced the burner swich the same way...used a socket set to loosen and remove the old switch and connected the new one wire-for-wire, and again needed to use the original washer and nut. (The wrong model that I initially received had a new washer and nut in the bag with the switch.) But, again, no problem. The control knobs just pull off and push on...simple. Now that I had a nearly new range top, I spent another 2 hours REALLY cleaning it (Dawn Power Dissolver is GREAT!). Looks almost like new! I guess I won't be getting a new range top for another 22 years now.....
Two heating elements couldn't be controlled - full on
Turned off power.
Removed two screws to free up section of cooktop containing 4 switches - 2 good, 2 damaged. Removed the dials from top of the 2 damaged switches. With an adjustable wrench, loosed nut on stem of switch that fastened switch to assembly. Noted which of the 5 wires on each switch went on which tab. Pulled off 5 wires on one switch, finished removing the nut and removed broken switch. Put in new switch, attached the nut, and replaced 5 wires in exactly the same position, Tightened nut. Replaced dial. Repeated procedure for second switch. Placed section containing the 4 switches back on cooktop and inserted/tighted 2 screws holding it in place.
Turned on power.
Told cleaning people to NEVER put aluminum foil under the burner units again. The foil shorted across the power and damaged the switches.