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several grate pads fell out/lost /broke during cleaning
The only real issue was locating the proper adhesive to ensure that the new pads would not fall out. The small insert paper slip in the package noted that a RTV adhesive should be used. After much searching at the home improvement super store, I learned it would be found at an auto supply store. It is black, and is for high temp use. It is available in a small tube for around $2.00. The RTV is usually used to make gaskets for heat/oil exposure in auto repair. I did have trouble removing a broken stub from a pad that had broken off in the hole. I used an awl to get what I could and push the rest into the hole deeper, then insert a new pad with along with the adhesive.
Remove 2 screws holding the top burner. Remove 1 screw holding the electrode. Remove electrode from wiring using plier. Install new electrode and top burner
The broiler would work but the stove would not lite. I saw the igniter getting to a glow on the broiler and lite but the stove it would not so I figured the igniter might be shot.
1st I opened door to stove and removed the wire racks. Then removed lower panel to get to igniter. Then I had to slide stove away from wall. Remove panel on back for accesss to wires. The new part had a plastic connector and the original just used wire nuts for the connection. So I cut off connector and stripped 1/2 inch of the end. Removed wire nuts from old igniter. Back into the oven removed 2 screws pulled out old igniter. Installed new igniter with 2 screws stuck wires through small hole to rear. Back around to back of stove. Connected wires with wire nuts.(I did not see any differnce in wires and dont think it matters) put everything back together and fires that baby up. I am gonna say 15-30 min job
Burner would not ignite when control in "light" position
Remove the two screws from the burner assembly (on top of the burner). Lift burner assembly from the cook top. Disconnect the electrode wire from the electrode. Remove the screw holding the electrode to the burner assembly (on bottom of burner). Install the new electrode and attach the electrode to the burner assembly. Attach the electrode wire to the electrode. drop the burner assembly back into position on the cooktop. Attach the burner assembly using two screws.
Unplug oven. Remove oven door. Two latches on hinges must be rotated towards the door to release and then remove. Remove two thumb screws that hold drip pan in place and remove from oven. The ignitor is then exposed. Remove the two screws that hold the ignitor onto the burner asymbley. Pull wires/connection plug through hole in back of oven. I used needle nose pliers to guide electrical plug through hole. Disconnect old ignitor and plug in new. Simply pull apart. There is a guide key that will ensure you install plug correctly. Reasymble in reverse order. Hardest part for me was getting the door back one.
Two of the four burners would not ignite when lighting the stove.
I thought the problem was with the ignitors/burners since they appeared to be worn. As it turned out, I needed the spark ignitor, which is a "brain box" located under the range cover. It connects all of the ignitor/burners and sends current to the ignitors to give it the "spark" to ignite the gas. It was really easy to replace.
replaced top burner - in theory simple, but severe rusting of two screws holding the burner required drilling and extracting with a screw extractor. The screws broke requiring that the entire burner pan assembly be taken apart to remove the broken nubs of screws from behind with vice grips. Recommend that you have proper sized pan head screws available when you start job so it can be finished in one sitting. Burner starts perfectly now.
I removed the two rear screws securing the bottom plate inside the oven. The ignitor visually was fine, however the wires internally must have frayed and was not connecting properly. I unscrewed the two screws securing the ignitor, disconnected the plug, then reconnected the new ignitor and things fired up immediately.
No tools were needed; the old burner bowls were taken out and replaced with the new burner bowls. I would like to say the service was great from PartSelect. com. I was so happy I was able to find replacement bowls for my older drop-in range that I ordered a second set to keep for future use. PartSelect.com sent the replacement bowls quickly, and the order was processed very efficiently. Thank you!
Top oven door trim became discolored from oven heat. Made of white plastic. Had to renew the top trim.
Opened the oven door, removed three screws holding trim to door, and removed trim piece.Installed new trim using the 3 screws. Looks good as new. Part was easy to find on Parts Direct using their illustrations of the Maytag stove.
1. Flip "OFF" circuit breaker. 2. Pull out range unit from wall. 3. Unplug range unit. 4. On the back of the range unit, remove 4 screws holding lower rear cover using a phillips head screwdriver. 5. Remove lower rear cover. 6. Unplug temperature sensor connector (1 wire connector located upper right section behind oven). 7. From inside oven (upper left, back corner), remove 2 screws holding temperature sensor unit using a Phillips head screwdriver. 8. Remove old temperature sensor unit. 9. Insert new temperature sensor unit (wire connector end first) through opening and secure reusing old screws. 10. Re-connect temperature sensor connector. 11. Re-attach and secure lower rear cover reusing 4 old screws. 12. Plug in range unit. 13. Move range unit back to desired location. 14. Flip "ON" circuit breaker.
Original bumper pads NOT glued into the burner grates. Hence they began to disappear during routine use and cleaning. Very simple repair with a little glue this time around. But fairly expensive for a very small part set
I unscrewed the ignitor from the gas supply. Unplugged the ignitor. Plugged the new ignitor in and screwed it back in place to the gas supply. It could not have been easier!