This part connects the wire harness to the surface element and is used for ranges. The kit includes interchangeable mounting brackets, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing, and wires. If y...
$16.19
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The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine wheth...
$43.82
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The range surface element provides heat to the cooking surface on top of the range. The element has a universal plug, is 8 inches in diameter, spans 5 coils in width and reaches 2600 watts. Before you...
$20.41
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This element is a genuine OEM replacement part, has looped terminal ends, comes with a black medallion center, and fits most electric ranges. All burners are made of a heating wire that produces heat ...
$39.28
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This genuine OEM oven probe is also known as an oven temperature sensor or range probe. This part is manufactured for a range, stove, or oven to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. The prob...
$47.21
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This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$19.71
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Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches...
$9.38
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This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly...
$60.95
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This is an 8-inch drip bowl for your range or cooktop. It is made of porcelain and is black in color. Place the drip pan under your burner to catch food that may drip or spill while you cook. It is 10...
$11.78
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The Frigidaire light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven. No tools are necessary to replace this item. After unplugging the appliance, slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing...
$10.89
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This tempered glass is supplied by the original manufacturer and measures 20 inches by 13 inches. It is an inner door glass, designed for use in ranges/ovens and has several purposes which include pro...
$84.88
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Questions And Answers for 970598421
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We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
... Read more passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede
... Read mored are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.