Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven not heating to desired temperature
Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.
I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.
I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
No power to burner until after dial setting 3 reached and would not reach highest setting.
1. Remove all four control knobs. 2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front panel to stove. 3. Lift front panel off. 4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control switches are fastened. 5. Lift entire assembly up. 6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield. 7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one. The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished job.If just one wire is connected to the wrong terminal a disaster will happen. 8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the connected terminal. 9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch. 10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch. 11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove. 12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems. 13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts. 14. Install the control knobs. 15. Test the new switch.
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power
1. Turn off power to the electric oven 2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet. 3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job. 4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge. 5. Unplugged sensor 6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front. 7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws. 8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor. 9. Replace the back and replace the screws. 10. Slide oven back into the wall. 11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame. 12. Turn power back on Check the temperature