Models > 22107

22107 - Overview

Models starting with 22107

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Main – Part Number: 22107
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This part number matches the current model number 22107
PartSelect #: PS12276584
Manufacturer #: 22107
  No Longer Available
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Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W – Part Number: WB30M2
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W
★★★★★
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(18)
PartSelect #: PS243868
Manufacturer #: WB30M2
The surface element, also known as the coil surface element, transfers heat to the area on top of range. The element is 8 inches in diameter. If your surface element does not heat, over heats, or heat...
$61.74
  In Stock
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Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V – Part Number: WB30M1
Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS243867
Manufacturer #: WB30M1
If you notice that your surface element will not heat properly, you may need to replace it. This surface element is 6 inches in diameter and 240V. It is a Y-frame surface burner element with five turn...
$57.36
  In Stock
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Terminal Block – Part Number: WB17X5113
Terminal Block
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS232646
Manufacturer #: WB17X5113
This kit includes one ceramic block with 6" wire leads, 2 wire nuts and 2 heat shrink with mounting bracket.
$38.34
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Drip Bowl - 6" – Part Number: WB31X5010
Drip Bowl - 6"
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS244466
Manufacturer #: WB31X5010
This six inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with looped terminal style surface mount burner element units.
$14.79
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Drip Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31X5011
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS244470
Manufacturer #: WB31X5011
Sold individually.
$17.88
  In Stock
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Knob, 5/16-18 Wing (Black) – Part Number: 703065
Knob, 5/16-18 Wing (Black)
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS9999469
Manufacturer #: 703065
This 5/16-18 wing knob is sold individually. It is a plastic part, black in color, that works on a variety of equipment. Its general function is to allow you to quickly loosen, remove, or fold down th...
$7.59
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Nut-Centerlock – Part Number: 703893
Nut-Centerlock
PartSelect #: PS10000167
Manufacturer #: 703893
This centerlock nut, or lock nut, is sold individually and locks itself in place when inserted, to prevent it from backing out due to vibration. Over time, due to its strenueous job, it may become loo...
$7.19
  In Stock
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Wheel And Tire – Part Number: 071132MA
Wheel And Tire
PartSelect #: PS9252314
Manufacturer #: 071132MA
$38.42
  In Stock
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Nut.25-20 Hex Nylock – Part Number: 703232
Nut.25-20 Hex Nylock
PartSelect #: PS9999570
Manufacturer #: 703232
This quarter-inch Nylock nut, or hex nut, is silver in color and sold individually. Made of metal, its simple task is to secure and lock parts in place on a variety of different equipment. Regardless ...
$4.99
  In Stock
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Bracket, Stop Lever – Part Number: 1101454E701MA
Bracket, Stop Lever
PartSelect #: PS8839564
Manufacturer #: 1101454E701MA
$23.01
  In Stock
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Tire & Rim – Part Number: 336545MA
Tire & Rim
PartSelect #: PS9276673
Manufacturer #: 336545MA
$36.63
  In Stock
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Wheel-14 In. Gray – Part Number: 672074MA
Wheel-14 In. Gray
PartSelect #: PS9293401
Manufacturer #: 672074MA
$46.64
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Common Symptoms of models starting with 22107

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
Parts Used:
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
  • Joseph from South Plainfield, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Heating element required continuous adjustments to work.
I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder joint. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.
Parts Used:
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W Terminal Block
  • Richard from Apex, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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I had 2 of the terminals where the burner coil plugs into completely fry
First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.

Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.

To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).

After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.

I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.

Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.

Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.

Job done:-)
Parts Used:
Terminal Block
  • PATRICK from WASHINGTON, DC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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